Sourdough Tsoureki

Sourdough Tsoureki

A soft, shreddable Greek Easter bread made with a wild-yeast starter, fragrant with orange zest, mastic and mahleb. Two braided loaves with a glossy, deep-gold crust and a feathery, buttery crumb.

Prep
1 hr 25 min
Cook
35 min
Wait
8 hr 20 min
Total
10 hr 20 min
Makes
2 braided loaves (8 slices each)
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Steps

Before you start
  • Feed your starter 4–8 hours before mixing, at a 1:1:1 ratio by weight (starter:flour:water), until it has doubled, is domed and bubbly, and floats in a glass of water. A sluggish starter is the number one cause of dense tsoureki.
  • Take the eggs out of the fridge and soften the butter (it should dent easily but not be greasy) about 1 hour before starting.
  • This is a long, warm-room bread: plan about 10 hours from mixing to cooling. Ideal dough temperature is 76–80°F (24–27°C).
  • Mastic tears and mahleb are sold in Greek and Middle Eastern shops and online. Mahleb is best bought whole and ground fresh, since it fades quickly.
  1. Grind the spices

    • Place the mastic tears and 1 teaspoon of the sugar in a spice grinder or mortar.
    • Grind until you have a fine, uniform powder with no visible grit.
    • Stir in the ground mahleb.
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    Ready when: The mixture looks like pale, fine powder with no sticky lumps.

    Tip: Mastic gums up when ground alone. The sugar keeps the tears brittle and stops them clumping.

  2. Mix and rest

    • In the mixer bowl, whisk together the starter, lukewarm milk, the remaining sugar and the beaten eggs until the starter is mostly dispersed.
    • Add the orange zest, the ground spice mixture and the flour.
    • Mix on low with the dough hook (or by hand) for 2 minutes until no dry flour remains and the dough looks shaggy.
    • Cover and rest 30 minutes so the flour hydrates.
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    Ready when: No dry flour pockets remain; the dough is sticky and shaggy.

  3. Knead in salt and butter

    • Sprinkle the salt over the dough and knead on medium-low (speed 2 on a stand mixer) for 4 minutes.
    • With the mixer running, add the butter a few pieces at a time, waiting until each addition is mostly absorbed before adding more.
    • Continue to knead 6–8 minutes more, scraping the hook and bowl as needed.
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    Ready when: The dough is smooth, glossy and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. A small piece stretches into a thin, translucent window without tearing right away. Dough temperature is 76–80°F (24–27°C).

    Tip: If the dough looks greasy and slack, the butter was too warm. Rest it 10 minutes and continue kneading.

  4. Bulk ferment with folds

    • Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled or buttered 4-quart (4 L) container and cover.
    • Let it sit at 76–78°F (24–26°C).
    • At 30 and 60 minutes, wet your hand and perform a set of stretch-and-folds: pull one side of the dough up and fold it over to the center, rotate the container a quarter turn, and repeat 4 times.
    • Then leave undisturbed for the remaining time, about 4 hours total from the start, until the dough has risen by about 50–75% and looks puffy.
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    Ready when: The dough has risen 50–75%, is domed and jiggly, with bubbles visible at the edges and sides.

    Tip: Enriched sourdough ferments slower than plain loaves. If your kitchen is cool, allow up to 6 hours, and judge by the dough, not the clock.

  5. Divide and rest

    • Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter.
    • Weigh it (about 1,300 g) and divide into 6 equal pieces of about 220 g each.
    • Pre-shape each into a loose ball, cover with a towel and rest 15 minutes.
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    Ready when: The balls feel relaxed and slightly flattened when pressed.

  6. Roll the strands

    • Working with one ball at a time on an unfloured or barely floured counter, flatten it slightly and roll it into a rope about 16 inches (40 cm) long, tapering the ends slightly.
    • If it springs back, move on to the next ball and return to it in a few minutes.
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    Ready when: All six ropes are even in thickness, about 16 inches (40 cm) long.

    Tip: Too much flour on the counter prevents grip, so ropes slide instead of stretching.

  7. Braid the loaves

    • Line up 3 ropes side by side, joined at the top by pinching the ends firmly together.
    • Braid loosely, over and under, from the middle toward each end rather than pulling taut, since the dough will expand.
    • Pinch the ends together and tuck them under.
    • Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and repeat with the other 3 ropes on the second sheet.
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    Ready when: Each braid is neat, about 12 inches (30 cm) long, with ends tucked under.

    Tip: A tight braid restricts the rise and splits the crust at the seams.

  8. Final proofOven 350°F / 175°C

    • Cover each loaf loosely with a lightly oiled sheet of plastic wrap or a clean towel.
    • Proof at 76–78°F (24–26°C) for about 3 hours.
    • About 30 minutes before the end, position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C).
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    Ready when: Loaves are visibly puffy, about 1½ times their size. A gentle fingertip press leaves a dent that springs back slowly and partially.

    Tip: If the dent springs back instantly, give them another 30 minutes. If it doesn't spring back at all, bake right away.

  9. Wash and top

    • Whisk the egg with the 1 tablespoon milk until smooth.
    • Brush gently and thoroughly over both loaves, getting into the crevices of the braid without pooling.
    • Scatter the sliced almonds over the tops.
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    Ready when: Loaves look evenly glossy with almonds dotted across the tops.

    Tip: Press down lightly with the brush: the proofed dough deflates easily.

  10. BakeOven 350°F / 175°C

    • Bake both sheets at 350°F (175°C) for 33–35 minutes, swapping the sheets between racks and rotating them front to back after 18 minutes.
    • If the loaves are browning too fast at about 20 minutes, tent loosely with foil.
    • Bake until deep mahogany-gold and the internal temperature reaches 195°F (90°C).
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    Ready when: Crust is a deep golden brown, the loaf sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, and an instant-read thermometer in the center reads 195°F (90°C).

    Tip: The egg wash and sugar brown quickly, so watch for darkening after 20 minutes.

  11. Cool completely

    • Slide the loaves, still on the parchment, onto wire racks.
    • Cool at least 45 minutes before slicing, or tear off pieces by hand once barely warm.
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    Ready when: Loaves feel just barely warm to the touch on the bottom.

Good to know

Tips
  • Judge fermentation by the dough, not the clock: enriched sourdough can take 5–6 hours for bulk and 4 hours for proof in a cool kitchen.
  • Add the butter gradually: dumping it all in at once makes the dough greasy and slows gluten development.
  • For the traditional red-egg look, tuck a dyed, hard-boiled egg into the center of each braid before the final proof, securing it with two thin strips of dough. Eggs baked in the loaf should be eaten within 2 days and refrigerated.
  • Weigh your flour and dough pieces: even strands braid more neatly and bake at the same rate.
Make ahead

"After the stretch-and-folds (end of step 4's first hour), refrigerate the covered dough for 8–12 hours instead of the remaining room-temperature bulk. Let it sit at room temperature for 1 hour before dividing and shaping. The final proof may need 30–60 minutes longer because the dough starts cool."

Storage & reheating

"Room temperature: wrap tightly or keep in a bread bag for up to 3 days. Refrigerator: not recommended, as it stales the bread faster. Freezer: wrap tightly in plastic and foil, or slice first, and freeze for up to 3 months. Thaw at room temperature, then refresh whole loaves in a 300°F (150°C) oven for 8–10 minutes, or toast slices."

Substitutions
  • mastic tears → Omit and add ¼ teaspoon extra mahleb plus ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract. The flavor will be less resinous and piney, but still pleasantly aromatic.
  • ground mahleb → ¼ teaspoon almond extract plus a pinch of ground cardamom. Mimics mahleb's cherry-almond character, but is not identical.
  • bread flour → All-purpose flour. The crumb will be a little softer and less chewy; reduce milk by 1 tablespoon if the dough feels slack.
  • sliced almonds → Pearl sugar or sesame seeds. Use the same amount. Pearl sugar adds a crunchy, sweet top.

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Cuisine
Greek
Occasion
Easter

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