Sourdough Bagels
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Sourdough Bagels

From the MyKitchenBank Kitchen

Chewy, shiny, deeply flavored bagels made with sourdough starter alone, no commercial yeast. A stiff dough, an overnight chill in the fridge, and a quick malt-water boil give you a blistered crust and a dense, tangy crumb.

Prep
1 hr 27 min
Cook
22 min
Wait
18 hr 5 min
Total
19 hr 54 min
Makes
8 bagels (about 4 inches / 10 cm wide)

Steps

Before you start
  • Feed your starter 4 to 8 hours before mixing. It should be bubbly, domed and at least doubled, or the dough will rise too slowly.
  • Plan two days: mix, ferment and shape one afternoon, chill overnight (12 to 16 hours), then boil and bake the next morning.
  • Use barley malt syrup (found near the honey or in health-food stores). It gives the classic bagel flavor and color. Honey works in a pinch.
  • This is a stiff dough, about 59% hydration. It will feel much firmer than regular bread dough. That is correct, so don't add extra water.
  1. Mix the dough

    • In a large bowl, stir the water, starter and 1 tablespoon (20 g) malt syrup until the starter mostly dissolves and the liquid looks milky.
    • Add the bread flour and salt.
    • Mix with a firm spatula, then your hands, until no dry flour remains.
    • The dough will be shaggy and very stiff.
    • Cover and rest for 20 minutes so the flour hydrates.
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    Ready when: No dry flour is visible and the dough forms a rough, cohesive mass.

    Tip: Resist adding water. Bagel dough should feel tight and almost dry.

  2. Knead until smooth

    • Turn the dough onto an unfloured counter and knead firmly for 10 to 12 minutes, pushing with the heel of your hand, folding, and turning.
    • In a stand mixer, knead on low-medium speed for 8 minutes.
    • If the dough is too tough to work, rest it for 5 minutes and continue.
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    Ready when: The dough is smooth, very firm and slightly tacky but not sticky, and springs back slowly when poked.

    Tip: A stand mixer can overheat on this stiff dough. Stop if the motor feels hot.

  3. Bulk ferment

    • Rub a large bowl with the oil (1 teaspoon / 5 ml).
    • Place the dough in it, turn to coat, and cover tightly.
    • Let it ferment at about 75°F (24°C) for 3 hours.
    • After the first hour, do one gentle set of stretch-and-folds by pulling an edge up and over to the center 4 times.
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    Ready when: The dough looks puffy and has grown by about 50%, with a few bubbles visible. It will not double.

    Tip: In a cool kitchen (under 70°F / 21°C), allow up to 4 to 5 hours.

  4. Divide and pre-shape

    • Turn the dough onto the counter and cut it into 8 equal pieces, about 113 g each (weigh them).
    • Roll each piece into a tight ball by cupping your hand over it and moving in small circles on the counter.
    • Cover and rest for 10 minutes.
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    Ready when: The balls are smooth on top, with a taut surface and no tears.

  5. Shape the bagels

    • Line two baking sheets with parchment and brush the parchment lightly with a little oil.
    • Press your thumb through the center of a ball to make a hole.
    • Slip 2 fingers in and gently stretch and rotate it until the hole is about 2 inches (5 cm) wide and the ring is even.
    • Place on the sheet, 4 per tray, about 2 inches apart.
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    Ready when: Each ring has a smooth surface and a hole about 2 inches wide.

    Tip: Make the hole bigger than looks right. It shrinks as the bagels proof and bake.

  6. Chill overnight

    • Cover each tray tightly with plastic wrap, or slide each into a large bag.
    • Refrigerate for 12 to 16 hours.
    • This slow cold ferment builds tang and helps the bagels blister in the oven.
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    Ready when: Bagels look slightly puffy. A test bagel dropped into a bowl of cold water floats within about 10 seconds.

    Tip: If a bagel sinks, leave all of them at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes, then test again.

  7. Preheat and set upOven 450°F / 230°C

    • Place racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 450°F (230°C).
    • While it heats, pour 2 quarts (1.9 L) of water into a wide pot, stir in 1½ tablespoons (30 g) malt syrup, and bring to a gentle, steady boil over medium-high heat.
    • Take the bagels out of the fridge and set the sesame seeds in a shallow bowl, if using.
    • Line the cleared baking sheets with fresh parchment.
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    Ready when: The water is at a steady simmer-to-gentle boil with small bubbles, not a violent rolling boil.

    Tip: A violent boil can deflate the bagels. Reduce the heat if they get tossed about.

  8. Boil the bagels

    • Gently lower 3 to 4 bagels into the water, leaving room between them.
    • Boil for 30 seconds on the first side, flip with a slotted spoon, and boil 30 seconds more (45 seconds per side for a chewier crust).
    • Lift out, let the water drip off, and set them on a lined baking sheet.
    • Repeat with the rest.
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    Ready when: Bagels float, look puffed and glossy, and feel slightly tacky after boiling.

    Tip: Don't crowd the pot. Crowding lowers the water temperature and the bagels stick together.

  9. Add toppings

    • While the bagels are still wet and shiny, press the top of each into the sesame seeds, or sprinkle on the everything seasoning.
    • Return them to the baking sheet, topping side up.
    • Skip this step for plain bagels.
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    Ready when: Seeds are evenly coated and stick to the surface.

    Tip: Toppings only stick when the bagels are wet, so add them right after boiling.

  10. BakeOven 450°F / 230°C

    • Bake at 450°F (230°C) with one tray on each rack.
    • After 10 minutes, swap the trays top to bottom and rotate them front to back.
    • Continue baking 10 to 14 minutes more, a total of 20 to 24 minutes.
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    Ready when: The crust is deep golden-brown, the bottoms are browned and firm, and the bagels sound hollow when tapped underneath.

    Tip: If the bottoms darken too fast, slide a second baking sheet under the tray.

  11. Cool completely

    • Transfer the bagels to a wire rack.
    • Let them cool for at least 20 minutes before slicing.
    • The crumb needs this time to set, or it will be gummy.
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    Ready when: Bagels are just warm or room temperature and the crust feels crisp-chewy.

Good to know

Tips
  • Weigh the ingredients. The dough is stiff, and a small excess of flour makes it too dry to shape.
  • Use a starter at peak activity. A sluggish starter needs a longer bulk ferment and gives denser, flatter bagels.
  • Water that is too hot or boiling too hard flattens the bagels. Keep it at a gentle boil.
  • For softer bagels, boil 30 seconds per side. For a chewier, thicker crust, boil 45 to 60 seconds per side.
Make ahead

"The shaped bagels can chill in the fridge for up to 24 hours before boiling and baking. For the best flavor, bake them between 12 and 20 hours after shaping."

Storage & reheating

"Room temperature: 2 days in a paper bag or bread box, or 1 day in a sealed bag. Fridge: not recommended, since it makes them stale faster. Freezer: slice, wrap well and freeze up to 3 months. Toast straight from frozen, or reheat whole bagels in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 8 to 10 minutes."

Substitutions
  • barley malt syrup → honey or dark brown sugar. The flavor is slightly less malty, but the dough and color work well.
  • barley malt syrup → honey or light brown sugar. Use the same weight. The crust will be a little less deep in color.
  • bread flour → high-gluten flour. Gives an even chewier bagel. Use the same weight and keep the water the same.
  • sesame seeds, or everything bagel seasoning → poppy seeds, dried onion flakes, or everything bagel seasoning. Use the same amount, pressed on right after boiling.

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Cuisine
American

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