Sourdough Discard Gnocchi with Brown Butter and Sage

Pillowy baked-potato gnocchi made with unfed sourdough discard, which adds a gentle tang and helps the dough hold together with less flour. Finished in nutty brown butter and crisp sage.

Prep
40 min
Cook
1 hr 15 min
Wait
10 min
Total
2 hr 5 min
Makes
About 60 gnocchi (4 main-course servings)
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Steps

Before you start
  • Use unfed sourdough discard at about 100% hydration (equal weights flour and water), straight from the fridge or at room temperature. Very runny or very stiff discard changes how much flour you need.
  • Choose starchy russet potatoes of similar size. Waxy potatoes make gummy gnocchi.
  • Bake the potatoes whole rather than boiling them. Boiled potatoes absorb water and need much more flour, which makes gnocchi heavy.
  • Start heating your big pot of water while you shape the gnocchi, so it is boiling when you are ready.
  • Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C) with a rack in the middle.
  1. Bake the potatoesOven 400°F / 205°C

    • Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
    • Set the pricked, whole potatoes directly on the middle rack with a baking sheet on the rack below to catch drips.
    • Bake 55 to 60 minutes.
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    Ready when: A skewer slides into the center with no resistance and the skins are dry and slightly crisp.

    Tip: Baking, not boiling, keeps the potatoes dry so you need less flour and the gnocchi stay light.

  2. Rice and cool potatoes

    • While still hot, halve the potatoes and scoop out the flesh (discard the skins or save them for snacking).
    • Press the flesh through a ricer or food mill onto a clean work surface or large baking sheet in an even, loose layer.
    • Let it sit 10 minutes, until no longer steaming and just warm.
    • Meanwhile, fill the large pot with 5 quarts (4.7 L) of water, cover, and start heating it.
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    Ready when: Potato is fluffy, no visible steam, and warm (not hot) to the touch. You should have about 550 g riced potato.

    Tip: Do not use a food processor or mash with a masher; overworking releases starch and makes gnocchi gluey.

  3. Make the dough

    • Sprinkle the fine salt, nutmeg (if using), and grated Parmigiano (½ cup) over the riced potato.
    • Drizzle the sourdough discard and beaten egg over the top.
    • Sprinkle on about 150 g (1¼ cups) of the 200 g flour.
    • Use a bench scraper to chop and fold the mixture together, then gently knead with your hands for 1 to 2 minutes, adding the remaining flour a spoonful at a time only if needed.
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    Ready when: Dough is soft, slightly tacky, and holds together in a smooth ball without sticking to clean dry hands. It should spring back slightly when pressed.

    Tip: Stop kneading as soon as it comes together. Extra flour or kneading makes dense gnocchi.

  4. Shape and cut

    • Dust the work surface and a parchment-lined baking sheet with flour.
    • Divide the dough into 6 pieces.
    • Roll each piece into a ¾-inch (2 cm) thick rope, using light pressure and dusting with flour only as needed.
    • Cut each rope into ¾-inch (2 cm) pieces.
    • If you like ridges, roll each piece down the tines of a fork or a gnocchi board with your thumb.
    • Place in a single layer on the baking sheet, not touching.
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    Ready when: You have about 60 uniform pieces, each lightly floured and not sticking to the sheet.

    Tip: Keep unrolled dough covered with a towel so it does not dry out.

  5. Test one gnocco

    • Once the water is at a rolling boil, stir in the kosher salt.
    • Drop in one gnocco and simmer.
    • It should sink, then float after 1 to 2 minutes.
    • Cook 30 seconds after it floats, then lift out and taste.
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    Ready when: The test gnocco keeps its shape, is tender and fluffy in the center, with no raw flour taste.

    Tip: If it falls apart, knead 1 to 2 tablespoons more flour into the remaining dough and re-test.

  6. Boil in batches

    • Reduce the heat to medium-high so the water is at a steady gentle boil, not a violent one.
    • Add about a third of the gnocchi, stirring once gently.
    • When they float to the surface, cook 30 to 60 seconds more.
    • Lift out with a slotted spoon onto a lightly oiled or buttered plate.
    • Repeat with the remaining gnocchi in two more batches, returning the water to a boil between batches.
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    Ready when: Gnocchi float and look puffed, and are tender when bitten.

    Tip: Do not overcrowd the pot; too many at once drops the temperature and makes them stick or turn soft.

  7. Brown the butter

    • While the last batch cooks, melt the butter in the large skillet over medium heat.
    • Swirl as it foams, about 3 minutes.
    • Add the sage leaves and cook 1 to 2 minutes, until the leaves are crisp and the butter smells nutty with golden-brown specks at the bottom.
    • Remove from the heat.
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    Ready when: Butter is amber with toasty brown specks and sage leaves are crisp and darker green.

    Tip: Butter goes from brown to burnt quickly. Pull the pan off the heat the moment it smells nutty.

  8. Toss and serve

    • Return the skillet to medium-high heat.
    • Add the cooked gnocchi in one layer, along with 2 tablespoons of the gnocchi cooking water if the pan looks dry.
    • Cook 1 to 2 minutes, turning once, until lightly golden on the edges.
    • Add the lemon juice (if using) and plenty of black pepper.
    • Divide among warm bowls and top with the remaining ¼ cup Parmigiano.
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    Ready when: Gnocchi are glossy, lightly golden in spots, and coated in butter.

    Tip: Serve right away; gnocchi firm up and become chewy as they cool.

Good to know

Tips
  • Weigh the riced potato: the flour amount is built for about 550 g. If yours is much wetter or drier, adjust the flour by small spoonfuls.
  • Work while the potato is warm but not hot; hot potato cooks the egg, and cold potato turns stiff and hard to combine.
  • Always do the test gnocco. It takes two minutes and saves a whole batch.
  • A lightly tangy discard works best; discard that has sat for weeks and smells sharply of acetone or vinegar will make the gnocchi taste sour.
Make ahead

"Freeze shaped, uncooked gnocchi on the floured baking sheet for 1 hour until solid, then bag them. Cook straight from frozen, adding 1 to 2 minutes to the boil time. The dough does not keep well in the fridge because the potato darkens and the discard loosens it, so shape the same day."

Storage & reheating

Room temperature: not recommended beyond 1 hour. Fridge: store cooked gnocchi and sauce in an airtight container up to 3 days; reheat in a skillet over medium heat with a splash of water until hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Freezer: uncooked gnocchi up to 3 months (see make ahead). Cooked gnocchi freeze poorly.

Substitutions
  • Parmigiano-Reggiano → Pecorino Romano. Saltier and sharper; reduce the fine sea salt to 1 tsp (5 g).
  • all-purpose flour → 00 flour. Use the same weight for slightly silkier gnocchi.
  • fresh sage leaves → fresh thyme sprigs. Use 4 to 5 sprigs and remove them before serving; they will not crisp the same way.
  • unsalted butter → extra-virgin olive oil. Use 4 tbsp (60 ml) and skip browning; warm it with the sage until the leaves crisp.

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Meal
Dinner
Cuisine
Italian
Main ingredient
Potatoes

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