Pressure Cooker Rajma Biryani

Tender kidney beans and long-grain basmati cook together in a yogurt-tomato masala scented with whole spices, mint and saffron. Finished with golden fried onions, this Punjabi-style one-pot biryani is hearty, fragrant and fully vegetarian.

Prep
20 min
Cook
1 hr 15 min
Wait
8 hr 30 min
Total
10 hr 5 min
Makes
About 6 cups biryani (4 generous servings)
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Steps

Before you start
  • Soak the dried kidney beans the night before (or at least 8 hours). Most of the total time is this hands-off soak.
  • Raw or undercooked kidney beans are toxic. Always discard the soaking water and cook the beans until completely soft, as directed below.
  • Use a 5-liter (about 5-quart) stovetop pressure cooker. Never fill it more than two-thirds full, and check the gasket and vent are clean.
  • Get the saffron soaking in warm milk 10 minutes before you finish the biryani, and measure all spices before you start frying.
  1. Soak the beans

    • Rinse the kidney beans, then put them in a large bowl with 3 cups (720 ml) of the water.
    • Soak at room temperature for 8 to 12 hours (overnight).
    • Drain and discard the soaking water, and rinse the beans again.
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    Ready when: Beans look plump and slightly wrinkle-free, and are about double in size

    Tip: In hot weather, soak in the fridge so the beans don't ferment.

  2. Pressure-cook the beans

    • Put the drained beans in the pressure cooker with the remaining 3 cups (720 ml) water and 1 teaspoon salt.
    • Lock the lid and cook over high heat until the cooker reaches full pressure (about 10 minutes, or the first whistle).
    • Reduce to medium-low and cook 25 minutes.
    • Turn off the heat and let the pressure release naturally for about 15 minutes before opening.
    • Drain the beans, keeping them in a bowl.
    • Rinse and dry the cooker.
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    Ready when: A bean crushes easily between two fingers with no chalky or firm center

    Tip: If any beans are still firm, cook them 8 to 10 minutes more under pressure. Don't move on until they are completely soft.

  3. Soak the rice

    • While the beans cook, rinse the basmati rice in a fine-mesh strainer under cold water, swishing gently, until the water runs almost clear.
    • Cover with fresh water and soak 30 minutes.
    • Drain very well just before using.
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    Ready when: Grains turn opaque white and look slightly longer

    Tip: Drain thoroughly, since extra clinging water will make the biryani soft and sticky.

  4. Prep the aromatics

    • Slice the onion for frying and chop the second onion, the tomatoes, mint and cilantro.
    • Slit the green chilies.
    • Whisk the yogurt until smooth.
    • Warm the milk, add the saffron and set aside to steep.
    • Measure all the ground spices into a small dish so they are ready to go.
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    Tip: Slice the frying onion as evenly and thinly as you can so it browns at the same rate.

  5. Fry the golden onions

    • Heat 2 tablespoons of the ghee in the open pressure cooker (no lid) over medium-high heat.
    • Add the sliced onion and a pinch of salt from the 1½ teaspoons.
    • Fry, stirring often, 8 to 10 minutes, lowering the heat to medium once the edges color.
    • Lift out with a slotted spoon onto paper towels.
    • They crisp as they cool.
    • Leave the ghee in the pot.
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    Ready when: Onions are deep golden brown (not dark brown) and smell sweet

    Tip: Pull them out when they are a shade lighter than you want, since they keep darkening in the hot fat and turn bitter if burnt.

  6. Build the masala

    • Add the remaining 2 tablespoons ghee to the pot over medium heat.
    • Add the bay leaf, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, peppercorns and cumin seeds.
    • Stir 30 seconds until fragrant.
    • Add the chopped onion and cook 5 minutes until soft and light golden.
    • Stir in the ginger-garlic paste and green chilies, cooking 1 minute.
    • Add the tomatoes with the turmeric, chili powder and coriander.
    • Cook 6 to 7 minutes, mashing the tomatoes, until the mixture is thick and the ghee separates at the edges.
    • Lower the heat, stir in the yogurt and half the mint and cilantro, and cook 2 minutes more, stirring constantly.
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    Ready when: Masala is thick and jammy, with ghee shining at the edges and no raw tomato smell

    Tip: Keep stirring after the yogurt goes in or it may curdle and split.

  7. Add beans and rice

    • Stir in the cooked beans and 1 teaspoon of the garam masala.
    • Add the drained rice, the remaining salt, and the water.
    • Stir gently once or twice to combine without breaking the rice.
    • Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and taste the liquid, which should taste slightly salty.
    • Spread everything flat so the liquid sits just barely above the rice (about ¼ inch / 5 mm).
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    Ready when: Liquid is boiling gently and tastes lightly salted

    Tip: Do not stir after this point. Stirring releases starch and makes the rice gummy.

  8. Pressure-cook the biryani

    • Close and lock the lid.
    • Cook over high heat until the cooker reaches full pressure (about 5 minutes, or the first whistle).
    • Immediately reduce to the lowest heat and cook exactly 4 minutes.
    • Turn off the heat.
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    Ready when: Steady pressure is held on low heat the whole 4 minutes

    Tip: Set a timer. An extra couple of minutes can turn basmati mushy.

  9. Release pressure and rest

    • Leave the cooker undisturbed for 10 minutes so the pressure drops naturally.
    • Release any remaining pressure with the vent and open the lid away from your face.
    • Scatter the lemon juice over the top, then cover with a clean towel and the lid again and rest 5 minutes off the heat.
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    Ready when: Surface looks dry, with small steam holes and no standing liquid

    Tip: Forcing a quick release can split the grains and leave the rice wet.

  10. Fluff and finish

    • Drizzle the saffron milk over the rice in a few spots.
    • Use a fork or flat spoon to gently fold from the bottom, mixing the white and saffron rice and the beans without mashing.
    • Top with the fried onions, the remaining mint and cilantro, and the remaining ½ teaspoon garam masala.
    • Serve hot with cucumber raita.
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    Ready when: Rice grains are long, separate and fluffy, with streaks of saffron yellow throughout

    Tip: Fold gently, lifting from the bottom, because basmati breaks easily when hot.

Good to know

Tips
  • Use aged basmati. It stays long and separate, while fresh or short-grain rice turns sticky.
  • Cook the masala until the ghee separates. This is where most of the flavor comes from.
  • Pressure cookers vary, so if your rice comes out wet, cut the water by 2 tablespoons next time. If it is hard, add 2 tablespoons and rest it covered for 5 minutes.
  • For extra heat, add another slit green chili or more Kashmiri chili powder.
Make ahead

"Soak and cook the beans up to 3 days ahead and refrigerate them in a covered container. You can also make the fried onions a day ahead and keep them at room temperature in an airtight container. Cook the biryani fresh for the best rice texture."

Storage & reheating

"Room temperature: up to 2 hours after cooking. Refrigerator: cool quickly, then keep in an airtight container up to 3 days. Freezer: up to 2 months in a freezer-safe container (add the fried onions fresh). Reheat in a covered pan or microwave with 1 to 2 tablespoons of water per serving until steaming hot throughout."

Substitutions
  • dried red kidney beans (rajma) → 2 cans (15 oz / 425 g each) kidney beans, drained and rinsed. Skip steps 1 and 2. Add the beans directly to the masala in step 7.
  • ghee → neutral oil or half oil and half unsalted butter. The biryani will be less nutty, and it is then also vegan if you use oil only and swap the yogurt.
  • plain whole-milk yogurt → unsweetened plain coconut or soy yogurt. Makes the dish dairy-free. Add the lemon juice for tang.
  • saffron threads → ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric stirred into the milk. Gives similar color but not the floral aroma.

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