Mughlai Chicken Biryani with Almond Cream
A royal, mildly spiced dum biryani: yogurt-marinated bone-in chicken simmered in a silky almond-cream masala, layered with saffron-scented basmati and crisp golden onions, then steamed sealed so every grain absorbs the aromas.
- Prep
- 40 min
- Cook
- 1 hr 33 min
- Wait
- 1 hr 40 min
- Total
- 3 hr 53 min
- Makes
- 6 generous servings (about 10 cups of biryani)
Steps
Before you start
- Start the chicken marinade at least 90 minutes ahead (up to 12 hours in the fridge for deeper flavor). While it marinates, you will soak the rice and almonds and fry the onions.
- Use a heavy-bottomed 5–6 quart (5–6 L) pot or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid. Thin pots scorch on the bottom during the dum stage.
- Use full-fat yogurt and heavy cream at room temperature. Cold or low-fat dairy is more likely to split in the masala.
- Read through the recipe once: the chicken masala, parboiled rice and fried onions all need to be ready before you layer.
Marinate the chicken
- In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, Kashmiri chili powder, ground coriander, garam masala, white pepper, slit green chilies, lemon juice and 2 teaspoons salt.
- Whisk into a smooth paste.
- Add the chicken pieces and rub the marinade into every surface.
- Cover and refrigerate for at least 90 minutes (up to 12 hours).
- Do the next two steps while it marinates.
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Ready when: Chicken is evenly coated in a thick, pale-orange marinade with no dry patches
Tip: Remove the chicken from the fridge 20 minutes before cooking so it doesn't chill the pot.
Soak rice and almonds
- Place the blanched almonds in a small bowl and cover with hot water for 30 minutes.
- Meanwhile, rinse the basmati in a bowl with cold water, swirling gently and draining, 4 to 5 times until the water runs almost clear.
- Cover with fresh cold water and soak for 30 minutes, then drain well in a strainer.
- Crush the saffron into the 3 tablespoons warm milk and let it steep.
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Ready when: Soaked rice grains are opaque white and slightly lengthened; milk turns deep orange
Tip: Stir rice gently while rinsing. Basmati breaks easily, and broken grains turn sticky.
Fry the onions
- Heat the oil in a 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over medium heat.
- Add the sliced onions with a pinch of salt and fry, stirring every 2 minutes at first and constantly in the last 5 minutes, for 22 to 25 minutes, until deep golden brown.
- Lift with a slotted spoon onto a paper towel-lined plate, spreading them out so they crisp as they cool.
- Leave about 3 tablespoons of the oil in the skillet and save the rest for another use.
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Ready when: Onions are an even deep golden brown and crisp up as they cool
Tip: Pull them just before they look dark enough. They keep browning from residual heat and turn bitter if burnt.
Blend the almond cream
- Drain the soaked almonds and blend with ¼ cup (60 ml) water for 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down the sides, until a completely smooth, pale paste forms.
- Add the cream and blend for 10 seconds more.
- Stir in the rose water.
- Set aside.
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Ready when: Mixture is silky with no visible almond grit
Tip: Add a tablespoon more water if the blender struggles, but keep it thick so the masala doesn't become thin.
Cook the chicken masala
- Transfer the marinated chicken and all marinade to your heavy 5–6 quart (5–6 L) pot.
- Add the reserved 3 tablespoons onion oil and about one-third of the fried onions, crushing them in with your fingers.
- Cook over medium-high heat, stirring, for 5 minutes until the marinade simmers.
- Reduce to medium-low, cover and cook for 12 minutes, stirring once or twice.
- Reduce the heat to low, stir in the almond cream mixture and cook uncovered for 6 to 8 minutes, until the gravy is thick and clings to the chicken.
- The chicken will be about 80 percent cooked; it finishes in the dum.
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Ready when: Gravy is thick like porridge, chicken is firm and opaque outside, and oil shimmers at the edges. No watery liquid pools.
Tip: Keep the heat low once the cream goes in. Boiling can make the dairy split. Excess liquid will make the rice mushy later, so keep simmering if the gravy looks thin.
Parboil the rice
- Bring 3 quarts (3 L) water to a rolling boil in a large pot over high heat.
- Add 1 tablespoon salt, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and cumin seeds.
- Boil for 2 minutes, then add the drained rice.
- Boil for 5 to 6 minutes, until the grains are about 70 percent cooked: bite one, and it should be soft outside with a firm, white chalky core.
- Drain immediately in a colander and shake off the water.
- Remove the cinnamon and bay leaves if you like.
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Ready when: Grains snap when pressed, break into three pieces when squeezed, and are no longer hard but not soft all the way through
Tip: Undercook rather than overcook. The rice finishes cooking in the dum, and extra boiling gives mushy biryani.
Layer the biryani
- Level the chicken masala in the pot (move the pot off the heat).
- Scatter half the mint, half the cilantro and one-third of the remaining fried onions over the chicken.
- Spoon half the rice on top in a light, even layer without pressing.
- Drizzle with half the saffron milk and 1 tablespoon ghee.
- Add the remaining rice in a mound, then drizzle with the rest of the saffron milk and ghee.
- Top with the remaining herbs and fried onions and the slivered almonds.
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Ready when: Rice sits in two distinct layers with saffron streaks, herbs and onions on top
Tip: Spoon the rice in loosely. Packing it down squeezes steam out and gives gummy grains.
Seal and dum
- Cover the pot with a sheet of foil pressed around the rim, then set the lid on top and weigh it down if the lid is loose.
- Place over high heat for 3 to 4 minutes, until you hear steady sizzling and see steam at the edge.
- Place a heavy tawa or heat diffuser under the pot, reduce to the lowest heat and cook for 30 minutes without lifting the lid.
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Ready when: Fragrant saffron-almond steam escapes from the rim, and a thermometer in a chicken thigh reads 175°F (80°C)
Tip: If you smell scorching, check that the diffuser is under the pot and the flame is at its lowest.
Rest the biryaniOven 175°F / 80°C
- Turn off the heat and leave the pot sealed for 10 minutes so the steam settles and the rice firms slightly.
- Then open the lid, and check that a rice grain is fully tender and the thickest chicken piece reaches 175°F (80°C).
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Ready when: Rice is long, separate and fluffy, and chicken registers 175°F (80°C) at the bone
Tip: If the rice still has a hard core, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons water, reseal and steam on low for 5 more minutes.
Fluff and serve
- Using a wide spoon, gently dig down the side of the pot to the bottom and lift in sections so the white rice, saffron rice and chicken masala are all in each serving.
- Serve hot with raita and a simple cucumber-onion salad.
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Tip: Avoid stirring vigorously, which breaks the long grains.
Good to know
Tips
- Use aged basmati. It stays long and separate when parboiled, unlike new-crop rice.
- Keep the masala thick. Any extra liquid turns the bottom rice layer soggy.
- Don't skip the foil under the lid; a tight seal is the key to good dum.
- For milder heat, deseed the green chilies or leave them out; the chili powder only adds color and gentle warmth.
Make ahead
"Marinate the chicken up to 12 hours ahead. Fry the onions up to 1 day ahead and store airtight at room temperature. The chicken masala can be cooked up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated; bring it to room temperature and warm it gently before layering with freshly parboiled rice."
Storage & reheating
"Room temperature: no more than 2 hours. Refrigerator: airtight up to 3 days. Freezer: up to 2 months in portions. Reheat covered in a skillet or microwave with 1 to 2 tablespoons water per serving until steaming hot (165°F / 74°C throughout); thaw frozen biryani overnight in the fridge first."
Substitutions
- bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks → Boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Cut into 2-inch pieces and reduce the covered simmering in step 5 to 8 minutes; finished temperature 175°F (80°C).
- saffron threads → Pinch of saffron plus ¼ teaspoon turmeric in the milk. Gives a similar color if saffron is limited, but the aroma is milder.
- heavy cream → Full-fat coconut cream. Makes it dairy-free in the cream, with a subtle coconut flavor; yogurt still contains dairy.
- ghee → Unsalted butter. Use the same amount; the flavor is slightly less nutty.
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- Meal
- Dinner
- Cuisine
- North Indian
- Main ingredient
- Chicken ThighsBasmati Rice
- Method
- Stovetop