Keema Biryani (Minced Lamb Biryani with Peas)
A fragrant layered biryani built on a dry-fried, spiced minced lamb and pea base, topped with par-cooked basmati, crisp fried onions, fresh mint and saffron milk, then sealed and steamed (dum) in the oven. It's faster than a bone-in biryani with no long marinade, and every grain comes out separate and aromatic.
- Prep
- 25 min
- Cook
- 1 hr 28 min
- Wait
- 40 min
- Total
- 2 hr 33 min
- Makes
- 6 generous servings (one 5-quart pot)
Steps
Before you start
- Use a heavy 5-quart (4.7 L), 10-inch (26 cm) ovenproof Dutch oven or pot with a tight lid. Check that the lid and handles are oven-safe to 325°F (160°C).
- Start with rice soaking (30 minutes) and slice the onions while it soaks. The onions and keema can cook while the saffron steeps.
- Use lamb mince with some fat (15–20%). Very lean mince turns dry and crumbly.
- Frozen peas can go in straight from the freezer; no need to thaw.
Soak the rice
- Rinse the basmati in a bowl under cold water, swirling gently and changing the water 4–5 times until it runs nearly clear.
- Cover with fresh cold water and soak for 30 minutes.
- Drain well in a sieve just before boiling.
- Use this time to slice the onions and prep the remaining ingredients.
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Ready when: Grains look opaque white and snap easily when bent
Tip: Handle soaked rice gently; it's fragile and breaks if stirred roughly.
Fry the onions
- Heat the frying oil in a 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over medium heat until a slice of onion sizzles steadily.
- Add all the sliced onions in an even layer.
- Cook, stirring every 1–2 minutes at first and constantly toward the end, for 18–20 minutes until deep golden brown.
- Lift out with a slotted spoon onto a paper towel-lined plate, spreading them out; they crisp as they cool.
- Save the oil in the skillet.
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Ready when: Onions are deep golden brown and crisp when cooled; they continue to darken off the heat
Tip: Pull them out when they're a shade lighter than you want; carryover heat browns them and burnt onions taste bitter.
Steep the saffron
- Warm the milk in a small saucepan or microwave until steaming.
- Stir in the crushed saffron, cover and leave to steep while you make the keema.
- The milk will turn deep orange-gold.
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Ready when: Milk is a deep orange-gold color
Tip: This steeps while the next steps cook, so it adds no extra time.
Brown the lamb
- Heat 2 tablespoons of the ghee and 2 tablespoons of the reserved onion-frying oil in the Dutch oven over medium-high heat.
- Add 1 bay leaf, 4 cardamom pods, 4 cloves, the cinnamon stick and cumin seeds; stir for 30–45 seconds until fragrant and the cumin sizzles.
- Add the lamb mince and the keema salt.
- Break the meat into small crumbles with a wooden spoon and cook, stirring often, for 8–10 minutes until all the pink has gone and the liquid has cooked off and the meat starts to sizzle and brown.
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Ready when: Meat is fully grey-brown, crumbly, and sizzling in its own fat with no pink or pooled liquid
Tip: Don't crowd or stir constantly early on; letting the meat sit briefly between stirs gives better browning.
Build the masala
- Reduce heat to medium.
- Stir in the ginger-garlic paste and green chilies and cook 1 minute until the raw smell fades.
- Add the coriander, cumin, chili powder and turmeric and stir 30 seconds.
- Add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, mashing them with the spoon, until they break down into a thick paste.
- Lower the heat, then stir in the yogurt a spoonful at a time, stirring constantly so it doesn't curdle.
- Cook 3–4 minutes until the oil begins to separate at the edges.
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Ready when: Tomatoes have melted into a jammy paste and glossy oil shows at the edges of the meat
Tip: Cold yogurt straight from the fridge can split; use it at room temperature and add it gradually.
Simmer with peasOven 160°F / 70°C
- Add 1 teaspoon of the garam masala, the peas, half of the mint and half of the cilantro, plus ½ cup (120 ml) hot water.
- Cover and simmer gently for 10–12 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the peas are tender and the meat is cooked through and registers at least 160°F (71°C).
- Uncover, stir in the lemon juice and cook 2–3 minutes more until the keema is moist but thick, with no loose liquid.
- Remove the cinnamon stick and bay leaf.
- Smooth the keema into an even layer in the pot and take off the heat.
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Ready when: Keema is thick and scoopable, not soupy; peas are tender and bright green; lamb reads 160°F (71°C)
Tip: A watery keema makes soggy rice at the bottom. If it looks wet, boil it uncovered for a few more minutes.
Parboil the rice
- While the keema simmers, bring the 3 quarts (2.8 L) water to a rolling boil in a 6-quart pot with the rice salt, remaining 1 bay leaf, 4 cardamom pods and 4 cloves.
- Add the drained rice, stir once gently and boil uncovered for 5–6 minutes.
- Test a grain: it should be about 70% cooked, with a firm white core when pressed between your fingers, and be longer in length.
- Drain immediately in a sieve, discarding the whole spices if you like.
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Ready when: Grains are elongated and break easily but still have a firm, chalky white center
Tip: Don't overcook. The rice finishes in the steam, and fully soft rice turns mushy.
Layer the biryaniOven 325°F / 165°C
- Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C) with a rack in the lower third.
- Spoon the parboiled rice evenly over the keema in the Dutch oven without pressing it down.
- Scatter the remaining mint and cilantro and about two-thirds of the fried onions over the rice.
- Drizzle the saffron milk in streaks over the top, dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons of ghee and sprinkle with the remaining ½ teaspoon garam masala.
- Cover the pot with foil, pressing it around the rim, then set the lid on top to seal tightly.
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Ready when: Rice sits in an even, fluffy mound with saffron streaks visible and the pot is fully sealed
Tip: A tight seal traps steam. If the lid fits loosely, add a second layer of foil.
Steam in the oven (dum)Oven 325°F / 165°C
- Place the sealed pot in the 325°F (160°C) oven and cook for 25 minutes.
- Do not open the lid during this time.
- The steam finishes the rice and carries the flavors of the keema, mint and saffron through the grains.
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Ready when: Steam escapes in a fragrant puff when opened and the top rice grains are fully tender
Tip: Opening the pot early lets out the steam and leaves the rice undercooked.
Rest the pot
- Remove the pot from the oven and leave it sealed on a trivet for 10 minutes.
- This lets the steam settle so the rice firms up and doesn't break when you serve.
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Ready when: Pot is still hot, but the steaming has stopped
Fluff and serve
- Remove the foil and lid.
- Scatter the remaining fried onions over the top.
- Using a large spoon, dig down to the bottom of the pot and lift gently so you get keema, rice and the saffron-colored grains in every serving.
- Serve hot with cucumber-mint raita and sliced red onion.
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Ready when: Rice grains are separate, fluffy and tender, with a mix of white and saffron-yellow, and the keema is moist but not wet
Tip: Fold gently from the bottom; stirring hard breaks the long grains.
Good to know
Tips
- Aged basmati holds its shape best; avoid parboiled or short-grain rice.
- Keep the keema thick and moist rather than wet; excess liquid makes the bottom layer of rice soggy.
- Taste the rice water before adding the rice: it should taste pleasantly salty, like mild seawater.
- Store-bought fried onions work in a pinch, but homemade ones give the keema sweetness and add flavor to the oil.
- For a spicier biryani, leave the seeds in the chilies or add an extra ½ tsp chili powder.
Make ahead
"The fried onions can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored airtight at room temperature. The keema (through step 6) can be cooked up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated; reheat until steaming before layering with freshly boiled rice."
Storage & reheating
Cool within 1–2 hours of cooking. Refrigerate in airtight containers for up to 3 days. Freeze for up to 2 months. Don't leave at room temperature for more than 2 hours, as cooked rice can carry harmful bacteria. To reheat, sprinkle each portion with 1 tablespoon of water, cover and microwave for 2–3 minutes until steaming hot throughout (165°F / 74°C), or heat in a covered pan over low heat for 8–10 minutes. Thaw frozen portions overnight in the fridge first.
Substitutions
- ground (minced) lamb → ground beef or ground goat. Beef (80/20) works with the same timings. Goat is more traditional and slightly gamier. For chicken keema, use thigh mince and cook to 165°F (74°C).
- ghee → unsalted butter plus a little oil. Use equal weight of butter; the flavor is slightly less nutty.
- saffron threads → ½ tsp ground turmeric in the warm milk. Gives a golden color but not the saffron aroma.
- plain whole-milk yogurt → full-fat Greek yogurt thinned with 1 tbsp water. Use the same amount and add gradually.
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- Meal
- Dinner
- Cuisine
- North Indian
- Main ingredient
- Ground LambBasmati Rice