Lucknowi Mutton Biryani (Awadhi Dum Pukki Biryani)

Steps

1. 1

   Marinate the goat

   • In a large bowl, combine the goat pieces, yogurt, ginger paste, garlic paste, slit green chilies, Kashmiri chili powder, ground coriander, garam masala, ground mace, lemon juice and 2 tsp (12 g) fine salt.
   • Massage with your hands for 2 minutes so the marinade coats every piece.
   • Cover and refrigerate.
   • Total marinating time should be at least 4 hours: the 180 minutes here plus the onion frying (step 2) and the room-temperature rest (step 3).
   • For an overnight marinade, leave it up to 24 hours and skip ahead to step 2 the next day.

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   Ready when: Meat is evenly coated in a thick, pale-orange marinade

   Tip: Use a non-reactive bowl (glass, stainless steel or food-grade plastic), not aluminum.

2. 2

   Fry the onions

   • While the goat marinates, heat 1 cup (250 ml) oil in a wide 12-inch (30 cm) pan over medium-high heat until a slice of onion sizzles at once.
   • Add half the sliced onions and fry, stirring often, 10–12 minutes, lowering to medium as they color.
   • Lift out with a slotted spoon when deep golden brown and spread on paper towels or a rack.
   • Repeat with the remaining onions.
   • Let them cool for 10 minutes to crisp.
   • You should have about 150 g of birista in total.
   • Divide it now: 50 g (crushed by hand) for the meat in step 3, 50 g for the middle layer and 50 g for the top layer in step 8.
   • Save the leftover oil for other cooking.

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   Ready when: Onions are an even deep golden brown and snap when cooled; not dark brown or bitter-smelling

   Tip: Pull them out slightly paler than you want; they keep darkening from residual heat. If your yield is a little off, scale the three portions evenly.

3. 3

   Warm meat, add onions

   • About 30 minutes before you want to start cooking (and once the marination has reached at least 4 hours in total), take the bowl out of the fridge.
   • Stir the 50 g crushed birista into the marinated goat, cover and leave on the counter so the meat is no longer ice cold.

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   Ready when: Meat feels cool, not cold, and the onions are mixed through the marinade

   Tip: Don't leave the meat out longer than 1 hour.

4. 4

   Sear and start braise

   • Heat the ¼ cup (60 g) ghee in the 6-quart pot over medium heat.
   • Add the bay leaves, green and black cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and peppercorns and sizzle for 30 seconds until fragrant.
   • Add the goat with all of its marinade and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, for 5 minutes.
   • Reduce to low, cover tightly and cook for 35 minutes, stirring once or twice.

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   Ready when: Marinade has darkened and thickened and the meat is gently bubbling in its juices

   Tip: If the pot starts to catch on the bottom, add 2 tbsp hot water and scrape.

5. 5

   Soak rice, bloom saffron

   • When about 35 minutes of braising remain, rinse the basmati in several changes of cold water until it runs nearly clear, then cover with fresh cold water and soak for exactly 30 minutes while the goat keeps braising (step 6).
   • Meanwhile, crumble the saffron into the warm milk, cover and let it steep until deep orange.

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   Ready when: Milk turns deep orange-gold; rice turns opaque white

   Tip: The soak runs alongside step 6, so it adds no extra time. Drain the rice only just before step 7.

6. 6

   Finish the braise

   • Keep the goat covered on low heat for another 30–35 minutes (about 70 minutes of simmering in all, 60–75 depending on the goat), stirring once.
   • The meat should be almost tender (a knife goes in with slight resistance) and the gravy thick, clinging and glossy, with ghee separating at the edges.
   • If the gravy is still thin, uncover and cook on medium for 3–5 minutes.
   • Aim for about 1 cup (250 ml) of thick gravy; it should not be soupy, or the rice will turn mushy.
   • Keep the pot hot on the lowest heat while the rice cooks.

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   Ready when: Meat is almost tender, gravy is thick, and ghee pools at the edges

   Tip: Goat varies a lot in age. If it's still tough, add ¼ cup (60 ml) hot water and cook 10–15 minutes more; it finishes tenderizing during dum.

7. 7

   Parboil the rice

   • Once the gravy is ready, bring the 3 quarts (3 L) water to a rolling boil in the large stockpot with 1 tbsp (18 g) salt (about 0.6%, pleasantly salty), the cardamom, cloves, mace blades and shahi jeera.
   • Drain the soaked rice, add it, stir once gently and boil over high heat for 3–4 minutes.
   • Test a grain at 3 minutes: it should be about 70% cooked, elongated, and snap in the middle with a thin white core still visible when pressed.
   • Drain immediately in a colander and spread lightly; do not rinse.
   • Layer within a few minutes.

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   Ready when: Grains are long and firm and break with a thin white core visible

   Tip: Err on the side of undercooked. The rice finishes in the steam, and overcooked rice turns to paste. The water should taste pleasantly salty, like well-seasoned soup, since the meat is already salted.

8. 8

   Layer the biryani

   • Make sure the goat is spread evenly across the bottom of the pot and the gravy is thick and hot.
   • Remove the cinnamon stick and bay leaves if you wish.
   • Spoon half the rice over the meat in an even layer without pressing.
   • Scatter over half the mint, half the cilantro, 50 g of the birista, 2 tbsp (30 g) of the melted ghee, half the saffron milk (about 30 ml, drizzled in stripes) and ½ tbsp (7 ml) kewra water.
   • Add the remaining rice and repeat with the remaining mint, cilantro, 50 g birista, ghee, saffron milk and kewra water.

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   Ready when: Two even rice layers with streaks of saffron and flecks of herbs and onion on top

   Tip: Don't stir or press the rice. Fluffy layers give separate grains.

9. 9

   Seal the pot

   • Mix the atta with about 6 tbsp (90 ml) water, adding a teaspoon more only if needed, to form a firm, pliable dough, and knead for 2 minutes.
   • Roll into a long rope and press it around the rim of the pot.
   • Set the lid on and press down so the dough forms a complete, gap-free seal.
   • Heat the tawa or diffuser over medium heat for 2 minutes and set the pot on top.

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   Ready when: No gaps in the dough ring; no steam escapes at the start of dum

   Tip: If you don't want to use dough, cover the pot with foil first and then press down the lid.

10. 10

    Cook on dum

    • Cook the sealed pot on the tawa over medium heat for 4 minutes until you can smell steam and see the dough start to dry, then reduce to the lowest heat and cook for 45 minutes undisturbed.
    • Don't lift the lid.

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    Ready when: Dough seal is dry and hard, and a rich, sweet aroma of saffron and kewra comes from the pot

    Tip: If you smell scorching in the first 15 minutes, move the pot onto a second tawa or lower the heat.

11. 11

    Rest, then open

    • Turn off the heat and let the pot rest, still sealed, for 15 minutes so the steam settles.
    • Break the dough seal and lift the lid away from you.
    • Check that the thickest piece of goat has reached at least 185°F (85°C) on an instant-read thermometer and is spoon-tender.

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    Ready when: Rice is fully tender with separate grains; goat pulls easily from the bone

    Tip: If the goat isn't tender, reseal and steam for another 10–15 minutes on the lowest heat.

12. 12

    Fluff and serve

    • Gently run a wide spoon down the side of the pot and lift from the bottom to mix rice and meat in large folds.
    • This keeps the grains unbroken and streaks saffron through the rice.
    • Serve hot with raita, a simple onion-cucumber salad, and lemon wedges if you like.

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    Ready when: Rice is long, separate and evenly golden-white with saffron streaks