Chicken Dum Biryani

Name: Chicken Dum Biryani
Prep time: 35 min
Cook time: 55 min
Total time: 1 h 30 min
Yield: 6 servings
Cuisine: Indian
Ingredients: 2½ lb (1100 g) bone-in, skinless chicken thighs, about 8 thighs, trimmed of excess fat, 2 shallow slashes cut into each; 1 cup (245 g) plain whole-milk yogurt, whisked smooth, at room temperature; 3 tbsp (45 g) ginger-garlic paste, or equal parts finely grated fresh ginger and garlic; 2 tsp (5 g) Kashmiri chili powder; ½ tsp (1½ g) ground turmeric; 2 tsp (4 g) garam masala; 2 (14 g) green chiles (serrano or Thai), slit lengthwise; 2 tbsp (30 ml) fresh lemon juice; ½ cup (40 g) crispy fried onions, crushed lightly with your fingers; 1½ tsp (9 g) fine sea salt; ¼ cup (10 g) fresh mint leaves and cilantro, mixed, packed, roughly chopped (half mint, half cilantro); 2½ cups (460 g) aged basmati rice, rinsed in several changes of cold water until the water runs nearly clear, then soaked in cold water for 30 minutes and drained; 12 cups (2850 ml) water, for boiling the rice; 2 tbsp (36 g) fine sea salt; 5 (1 g) green cardamom pods, lightly crushed; 4 (0.4 g) whole cloves; 1 (4 g) cinnamon stick, about 3 inches (7.5 cm); 2 (1 g) bay leaves; 1 tsp (2 g) cumin seeds; 1 tsp (3 g) black peppercorns; ½ tsp (0.3 g) saffron threads, a generous pinch, about 30 threads, crumbled; ¼ cup (60 ml) whole milk, warmed until hot to the touch but not boiling; 4 tbsp (56 g) ghee, melted; 2 tbsp for greasing the pot and 2 tbsp for the top; 1 cup (80 g) crispy fried onions; ¾ cup (30 g) fresh mint leaves and cilantro, mixed, packed, roughly chopped (half mint, half cilantro); 1 tsp (5 ml) rose water (optional)

From the MyKitchenBank Kitchen

Yogurt-marinated bone-in chicken thighs sit under layers of just-cooked basmati rice, crisp fried onions, herbs and saffron milk. The pot is sealed and steamed in the oven (dum), so the chicken juices perfume the rice and every grain comes out separate and fragrant.

Prep: 35 min
Cook: 55 min
Wait: 2 hr 10 min
Total: 3 hr 40 min
Makes: 6 generous servings (one 6-quart pot)

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Ingredients

6 servings

For the chicken
2½ lb (1100 g) bone-in, skinless chicken thighs, about 8 thighs, trimmed of excess fat, 2 shallow slashes cut into each
1 cup (245 g) plain whole-milk yogurt, whisked smooth, at room temperature
3 tbsp (45 g) ginger-garlic paste, or equal parts finely grated fresh ginger and garlic
2 tsp (5 g) Kashmiri chili powder
½ tsp (1.5 g) ground turmeric
2 tsp (4 g) garam masala
2 (14 g) green chiles (serrano or Thai), slit lengthwise
2 tbsp (30 ml) fresh lemon juice
½ cup (40 g) crispy fried onions, crushed lightly with your fingers
1½ tsp (9 g) fine sea salt
¼ cup (10 g) fresh mint leaves and cilantro, mixed, packed, roughly chopped (half mint, half cilantro)
For the rice
2½ cups (460 g) aged basmati rice, rinsed in several changes of cold water until the water runs nearly clear, then soaked in cold water for 30 minutes and drained
12 cups (2850 ml) water, for boiling the rice
2 tbsp (36 g) fine sea salt
5 (1 g) green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
4 (0.4 g) whole cloves
1 (4 g) cinnamon stick, about 3 inches (7.5 cm)
2 (1 g) bay leaves
1 tsp (2 g) cumin seeds
1 tsp (3 g) black peppercorns
For layering
½ tsp (0.3 g) saffron threads, a generous pinch, about 30 threads, crumbled
¼ cup (60 ml) whole milk, warmed until hot to the touch but not boiling
4 tbsp (56 g) ghee, melted; 2 tbsp for greasing the pot and 2 tbsp for the top
1 cup (80 g) crispy fried onions
¾ cup (30 g) fresh mint leaves and cilantro, mixed, packed, roughly chopped (half mint, half cilantro)
1 tsp (5 ml) rose water (optional)

Equipment (8)

6-quart (5.7 L) heavy pot or Dutch oven with tight-fitting, oven-safe lid
Large bowl for marinating (4-quart / 4 L)
Large pot for boiling rice (at least 5-quart / 4.7 L)
Fine-mesh sieve or large colander
Small saucepan or microwave-safe cup for warming milk
Aluminum foil
Instant-read thermometer
Slotted spoon or spider

Steps

Before you start

Start at least 3½ hours before serving: the chicken needs 2 hours in the marinade (up to 12 hours in the fridge is even better) and the rice needs 30 minutes of soaking.
Use a heavy 6-quart (5.7 L) pot or Dutch oven with a tight lid and ovenproof handles (no plastic or rubber parts). Check that the lid fits snugly.
Use bone-in, skinless chicken thighs. Boneless thighs overcook in the steam, and chicken breast turns dry.
Crispy fried onions (birista) are the flavor backbone. Use good store-bought ones (the kind sold at South Asian grocers) or fry your own thinly sliced onions until deep golden and crisp.
Take the chicken out of the fridge 30 minutes before layering so it isn't ice-cold in the pot.

1
Marinate the chicken
- In a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, Kashmiri chili powder, turmeric, 2 tsp garam masala, lemon juice and 1½ tsp salt until smooth.
- Stir in the slit green chiles, the ½ cup (40 g) crushed fried onions and the ¼ cup chopped mint and cilantro.
- Add the chicken thighs and turn and massage until every piece and slash is coated.
- Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 12 hours.
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Ready when: Chicken is evenly coated in a thick, orange-tinted marinade with no dry spots
Tip: Don't marinate longer than 12 hours. The lemon juice and yogurt will start to make the meat mushy.
2
Soak the rice
- While the chicken marinates, rinse the basmati in a bowl of cold water, swirling gently and draining, 4 to 5 times until the water is nearly clear.
- Cover with fresh cold water and soak for 30 minutes, then drain well in a sieve.
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Ready when: Grains look opaque white and are slightly longer; they snap rather than bend when pressed
Tip: Handle the soaked rice gently. Wet basmati grains are fragile and snap easily.
3
Bloom the saffron
- Warm the milk until hot to the touch but not boiling.
- Crumble in the saffron threads, stir, and let it steep for at least 15 minutes.
- It will turn deep orange.
- Set aside.
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Ready when: Milk is a deep golden-orange and smells floral
Tip: Do this during the last stretch of the soak, so it's ready when you layer.
4
Preheat and parboil riceOven 350°F / 175°C
- Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) with a rack in the lower-middle position, and take the chicken out of the fridge.
- In a large pot, bring the 12 cups (2.85 L) water to a rolling boil with the 2 tbsp salt, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, cumin seeds and peppercorns.
- Add the drained rice and boil uncovered for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring once gently.
- Drain immediately in a sieve, discarding the water and whole spices you can easily pick out (don't worry about a few).
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Ready when: Grains are about 70% cooked: they have lengthened and break easily when pressed between your fingers, but still have a firm white dot in the center and taste well salted
Tip: Err on the side of undercooked. The rice finishes in the steam, and overcooked rice turns mushy in the pot.
5
Layer the chicken
- Brush the inside of the 6-quart pot with 2 tbsp of the melted ghee, including the lower sides.
- Spread the marinated chicken and all of its marinade in an even layer over the bottom of the pot.
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Ready when: Chicken forms an even layer covering the base with marinade between the pieces
Tip: Don't stir or press the chicken. Leaving the marinade as a cushion protects the rice from scorching.
6
Layer rice and aromatics
- Spoon half of the parboiled rice over the chicken in an even layer without pressing down.
- Scatter over half of the layering herbs (about ⅓ cup) and half of the 1 cup fried onions (about ½ cup), and drizzle with half of the saffron milk.
- Add the remaining rice in a mound, then top with the remaining herbs, onions and saffron milk.
- Drizzle with the remaining 2 tbsp melted ghee and the rose water, if using.
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Ready when: Top shows distinct streaks of golden saffron rice and brown onions
Tip: Spoon the rice in loosely. Packing it down gives you gummy biryani.
7
Seal the pot
- Cover the pot with a sheet of foil, pressing it down around the rim, then set the lid on top and press so it fits snugly.
- The seal traps steam so the biryani cooks gently without drying out.
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Ready when: No gaps between the lid and the pot rim
Tip: If your lid is loose, put a heavy oven-safe weight on top, or use a double layer of foil.
8
Dum in the ovenOven 350°F / 175°C
- Place the sealed pot on the lower-middle rack of the 350°F (175°C) oven and cook for 45 minutes without opening the lid.
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Ready when: Steam and a strong spice aroma escape from the rim; a thigh pulled from the bottom reads 175°F (80°C) on an instant-read thermometer
Tip: Don't peek early. Each time you open the pot you lose the steam that cooks the rice.
9
Rest before opening
- Remove the pot from the oven and let it sit, still sealed, for 10 minutes so the steam redistributes and the rice firms slightly.
- Wear oven mitts when you remove the hot foil and lid, and lift them away from you to avoid steam.
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Ready when: Rice is fluffy and dry on top with no wet or soupy patches
10
Fluff and serve
- With a wide spoon, gently scoop the biryani from the sides down to the bottom, so each serving gets rice, chicken and some of the juices.
- Serve hot with raita, sliced onion and lemon wedges.
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Ready when: Grains are separate, long and tender, and the chicken falls from the bone
Tip: Fish out the whole cardamom, cloves and cinnamon as you serve; they are flavorful but not meant to be eaten.

Good to know

Tips

Use aged basmati if you can find it. It cooks into longer, drier, more separate grains than new-crop rice.
Salt the rice water generously, like pasta water. It tastes bland if the rice isn't seasoned at this stage.
If your oven runs hot or your pot has a thin bottom, set a baking sheet on the rack below to prevent the bottom layer scorching.
For a stovetop dum, cook over medium heat for 5 minutes until steam escapes, then put a heat diffuser or cast-iron skillet under the pot, reduce heat to low, and cook 40 minutes.

Make ahead

"Marinate the chicken up to 12 hours ahead and keep it covered in the fridge. Rinse and soak the rice and prepare the saffron milk up to 1 hour ahead. Layer and seal the pot up to 30 minutes before baking, leaving it at room temperature, but add 5 minutes to the oven time if the chicken is cold."

Storage & reheating

"Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container within 2 hours of cooking and eat within 3 days. Freeze portions for up to 2 months. Reheat in a covered microwave-safe dish with 1 tbsp of water per serving for 2 to 3 minutes (or in a covered pan over low heat) until steaming hot throughout, at least 165°F (74°C). Don't leave it out at room temperature for more than 2 hours."

Substitutions

ghee → Unsalted butter mixed with 1 tbsp neutral oil. Gives a slightly less nutty flavor but works well; the oil keeps the butter from browning too fast.
plain whole-milk yogurt → Greek yogurt thinned with 2 tbsp water. Use the same weight, 245 g, after thinning; the marinade will be slightly thicker.
Kashmiri chili powder → Sweet paprika plus ¼ tsp cayenne. Kashmiri chili is mild and deeply red; this gives similar color with a little more heat.
saffron threads → ½ tsp ground turmeric in the warm milk. Gives a golden color but not saffron's flavor and aroma; the dish will taste different.