Tonkotsu Ramen with Chashu Pork and Marinated Eggs

Steps

1. 1

   Blanch and scrub bones

   • Put the pork trotters, neck bones and back fat in the 12-quart (11 L) stockpot.
   • Add the 6¼ quarts (6 L) cold tap water so the bones are covered by at least 2 inches (5 cm).
   • Bring to a boil over high heat, then boil hard for 15 minutes.
   • A thick gray scum will rise.
   • Drain everything into a colander in the sink.
   • Rinse each bone under running water, scrubbing off any scum, dark blood or bits clinging to it with your fingers or a brush.
   • Poke out any dark marrow clots.
   • Wash the stockpot to remove all residue.

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   Ready when: Bones are pale pink-gray and look clean, with no gray foam or dark clots; the rinse water runs mostly clear.

   Tip: Do not skip scrubbing. Leftover scum makes the broth gray, bitter and muddy-tasting instead of creamy and white.

2. 2

   Start the rolling boil

   • Return the clean bones and back fat to the clean stockpot and add the 5¼ quarts (5 L) cold water.
   • Bring to a boil over high heat, about 25 minutes.
   • Skim off the foam for the first 15 minutes.
   • Then keep the pot at a vigorous, rolling boil, uncovered or with the lid cracked, for 3 hours.
   • Every 30 minutes, scrape the bottom with a long spoon so nothing sticks, and top up with hot water from the kettle so the bones stay barely covered.
   • You will use up to about half of the 1½ liters of hot water over the whole cook.

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   Ready when: After 3 hours the liquid is cloudy, light beige and opaque, and the surface is covered in large bubbles.

   Tip: A hard boil, not a gentle simmer, is what emulsifies the fat and collagen into a creamy broth. Never let the liquid fall below the top of the bones.

3. 3

   Make the marinated eggs

   • Combine the soy sauce, mirin and ½ cup (120 ml) cold water in the zip-top bag.
   • Bring 6¼ cups (1.5 L) water to a boil in the 1-quart (1 L) saucepan, or a wider pot if the eggs won't be covered.
   • Lower the cold eggs in gently with a spoon.
   • Boil at a steady boil over medium-high heat for exactly 6½ minutes.
   • While they cook, fill a large bowl with the ice and cold water.
   • Transfer the eggs to the ice bath for 10 minutes.
   • Crack and peel under a thin stream of cool water.
   • Slide the peeled eggs into the bag, press out the air and seal.
   • Lay the bag in a bowl in the fridge, turning it occasionally.
   • The eggs will marinate for about 4½ hours while everything else cooks.

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   Ready when: Peeled eggs have firm, set whites with no cracks; the yolk will still be soft when halved later.

   Tip: Set a timer. Even 30 seconds extra turns the jammy yolk chalky. Do not marinate longer than 24 hours or the eggs turn salty and rubbery.

4. 4

   Roll, sear and start chashu

   • Lay the pork belly flat, fat side down, and roll it tightly into a log along its length, with the fat on the outside.
   • Tie it snugly with butcher's twine every 1½ inches (4 cm).
   • Heat the oil in the 3-quart (2.8 L) saucepan over medium-high heat.
   • Sear the roll for 6 to 8 minutes, turning with tongs, until deep golden brown on all sides.
   • Pour off the rendered fat.
   • Add the soy sauce, 1½ cups (360 ml) water, sake, mirin, brown sugar, ginger slices, smashed garlic and scallion halves.
   • Bring just to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
   • Cut a circle of parchment paper to fit the pan, set it directly on the liquid, and cover with the lid slightly ajar.
   • Reduce the heat to low so it just barely bubbles.
   • Keep the broth on the other burner at a rolling boil.

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   Ready when: The roll is evenly browned with a rich color all over, and the braising liquid shows only occasional small bubbles.

   Tip: If the roll isn't mostly submerged, turn it every 20 to 30 minutes. A vigorous boil will make the pork tough and the liquid too salty.

5. 5

   Add aromatics, finish braise

   • At about the 3½-hour mark of the broth, drop the onion, garlic, ginger and scallion pieces into the stockpot.
   • Press the bones down and lightly crush a few against the pot with a sturdy spoon to release marrow.
   • Keep the broth at a rolling boil for 2 more hours, scraping the bottom and topping up with hot water every 30 minutes.
   • At the same time, the chashu braises on low heat for 2 hours: turn the roll over every 30 minutes, then check it.
   • Remove the pork belly after 2 hours, when a skewer slides through with almost no resistance.

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   Ready when: Broth is thick, opaque, milky ivory and coats the back of a spoon, and the bones are fall-apart soft. Chashu reads about 195°F (90°C) in the center and a skewer slides in easily.

   Tip: If the broth looks thin and watery, the boil isn't hard enough. Raise the heat and keep boiling hard for another 30 minutes.

6. 6

   Strain and emulsify broth

   • Turn off the heat under the chashu and leave the pork to cool in its braising liquid for 30 minutes.
   • Meanwhile, set the fine-mesh strainer over the second large pot or bowl.
   • Ladle the broth through it, pressing the solids gently with the back of the ladle.
   • Discard the bones and aromatics, and discard the back fat (or slice it finely to scatter on the ramen).
   • You should have about 2 liters (2 quarts).
   • If you have much more than 2½ quarts (2.4 L), boil it down for 10 minutes; if less than 1½ liters, add a little hot water.
   • Blend with the immersion blender for 30 to 45 seconds, holding the head just below the surface, until frothy and creamy.
   • Keep the broth hot, covered, over the lowest heat.

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   Ready when: The broth is a smooth, creamy, light-beige color with a visible film of fat, and it tastes rich and meaty.

   Tip: Blend carefully and keep the blender head below the surface so hot broth doesn't splash. Don't add salt to the broth.

7. 7

   Chill chashu, make tare, oil

   • Lift the chashu out of the braising liquid and transfer both to a container.
   • Refrigerate for 45 minutes so the roll firms up for clean slicing.
   • Meanwhile, make the tare.
   • Combine the soy sauce, mirin and sake in the clean 1-quart (1 L) saucepan and simmer over medium heat for 3 minutes.
   • Pour into a small bowl; you need 120 ml (½ cup) for 4 bowls.
   • For the garlic oil, combine the oil and sliced garlic in a small skillet while both are cold.
   • Set over medium-low heat and stir for 4 to 5 minutes until the garlic is pale golden and just fragrant.
   • Strain the oil into a heatproof bowl and discard the garlic (or crumble the chips on top of the ramen).

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   Ready when: Tare smells savory and lightly sweet, with a slightly syrupy look. Garlic slices are pale gold, not brown.

   Tip: Pull the garlic oil off the heat the moment the slices turn pale gold. They continue to darken in the hot oil and turn bitter if browned.

8. 8

   Slice and prep toppings

   • Remove the twine and slice the cold chashu into 12 slices about ½ inch (1 cm) thick, using a sharp knife and a sawing motion.
   • Heat the nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and warm the slices for about 1 minute per side with 2 tablespoons of the braising liquid, until glossy and lightly caramelized.
   • Pull the eggs from the marinade and halve them lengthwise.
   • Slice the scallions thinly and cut the nori.
   • Bring the broth to a gentle simmer over medium heat (about 185°F / 85°C) and warm 4 large ramen bowls with hot tap water, then empty them.
   • Bring the 4 quarts (3.8 L) noodle water to a rolling boil in the 5-quart pot.

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   Ready when: Slices are glossy and hot at the edges and hold their shape; egg yolks are deep orange and jammy.

   Tip: Warm bowls keep the broth hot to the last slurp. Slice the chashu cold; warm pork belly shreds.

9. 9

   Cook noodles and assemble

   • Add the noodles to the boiling water and cook 1½ minutes for fresh thin ramen (check the package; they should keep a firm bite).
   • Drain in a colander, shaking hard for 5 seconds to remove all water.
   • Working quickly, put 2 tablespoons (30 ml) tare and 1 teaspoon of garlic oil in each warm bowl.
   • Ladle in about 1½ cups (350 ml) of hot broth and stir.
   • Add the noodles and fold them gently with chopsticks so they lie in a neat mound.
   • Arrange 3 chashu slices and 2 egg halves in each bowl.
   • Top with scallions, nori, sesame seeds, pickled ginger and a pinch of white pepper, if using.
   • Serve immediately.

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   Ready when: Noodles are springy with a slight bite at the center; the broth steams and has a creamy, glossy surface.

   Tip: Ramen noodles go soft within minutes in hot broth, so cook them last and eat right away.