Thalassery Chicken Biryani

Steps

1. 1

   Marinate the chicken

   • In a large bowl combine the chicken, yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, Kashmiri chili powder, 2 tbsp (30 ml) of the lemon juice and 2 tsp of the fine salt.
   • Massage well so every piece is coated.
   • Cover and refrigerate for 60 minutes.
   • Meanwhile, slice the onions (see next steps).

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   Ready when: Chicken is evenly coated in a thick, deep-orange marinade

   Tip: Pat the chicken dry before marinating so the marinade clings rather than runs off.

2. 2

   Rinse and soak rice

   • About 30 minutes before the marinade finishes, rinse the kaima rice in a bowl, changing the water 4-5 times, until the water runs almost clear.
   • Cover with fresh water and soak 30 minutes, then drain well in a strainer.

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   Ready when: Grains look opaque white and the rinse water is nearly clear

   Tip: The soak runs inside the chicken's 60-minute marinade, so it adds no extra waiting time.

3. 3

   Fry the onions

   • Heat the oil in a wide 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over medium-high heat until a slice of onion sizzles immediately.
   • Add the onions in two batches, stirring often, and fry 8-10 minutes per batch until deep golden brown.
   • Lift out with a slotted spoon onto a paper-towel-lined tray; they crisp as they cool.
   • Save 2 tbsp of the frying oil for the masala and discard or reserve the rest.

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   Ready when: Onions are evenly golden-brown (not dark brown) and lift out crisp-edged

   Tip: Pull them out a shade lighter than you want; they keep darkening from residual heat and turn bitter if burnt.

4. 4

   Build the masala

   • In the 5-quart pot, heat 3 tbsp of the ghee and 2 tbsp of the reserved onion oil over medium heat.
   • Add 1 cinnamon stick, 4 cardamom pods, 4 cloves and the fennel seeds; stir 30 seconds until fragrant.
   • Add the green chilies and tomatoes with 2 tsp fine salt.
   • Cook, stirring and mashing, 8-10 minutes until the tomatoes break down into a soft, jammy paste.
   • Stir in the garam masala, half of the mint, half of the cilantro and one-third of the fried onions.

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   Ready when: Tomatoes have collapsed and oil begins to separate at the edges of the paste

   Tip: Keep the heat at medium so the spices toast rather than scorch.

5. 5

   Cook the chicken

   • Add the marinated chicken with all of its marinade to the pot.
   • Raise heat to medium-high and stir 3 minutes, then cover, reduce to medium-low and cook 15 minutes, stirring once or twice.
   • Chicken should be about 80% cooked and the gravy thick and clinging, not watery.
   • If it looks wet, uncover and cook 2-3 minutes more on medium.
   • Taste and adjust salt; it should taste slightly salty since rice will dilute it.

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   Ready when: Chicken is opaque outside and just short of done inside; gravy is thick enough to coat a spoon

   Tip: A watery masala makes soggy rice later, so reduce it now.

6. 6

   Parboil the rice

   • While the chicken cooks, bring 3 quarts (3 L) water to a rolling boil in the large pot with the coarse salt, remaining cinnamon stick, 4 cardamom pods, 4 cloves, bay leaves and the remaining 2 tbsp (30 ml) lemon juice.
   • Add the drained rice and boil 6-7 minutes.
   • Test a grain: it should snap when pressed, with a thin white core.
   • Drain immediately in a colander.

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   Ready when: Grains are about 70-80% cooked: soft outside, firm white pinpoint in the center

   Tip: Do not overcook; the rice finishes steaming during the dum and will go mushy otherwise.

7. 7

   Fry cashews and raisins

   • Melt 1 tbsp of the ghee in a small pan over medium-low heat.
   • Fry the cashews 1-2 minutes until light gold, add the raisins and cook 30 seconds until they puff up.
   • Tip out immediately.

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   Ready when: Cashews are pale golden and raisins are plump and glossy

   Tip: Cashews darken fast off the heat, so remove them a touch early.

8. 8

   Layer the biryani

   • Level the chicken masala in the pot.
   • Spoon half of the rice over it in an even layer.
   • Scatter half of the remaining fried onions, half of the remaining mint and cilantro, and half of the nuts and raisins.
   • Dot with 2 tbsp of the ghee.
   • Add the remaining rice, then the rest of the onions, herbs, nuts and raisins, and the last 2 tbsp ghee.
   • Do not press the rice down.

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   Ready when: Two even layers of rice sit on the masala with a garnish on top

   Tip: Take care not to stir; mixed layers lose the classic look and let the rice absorb too much gravy.

9. 9

   Seal and dum cookOven 300°F / 150°C

   • Cover the pot with a tight lid, sealing the edge with foil or a rope of dough if the lid fits loosely.
   • Set the pot on a hot griddle or heat diffuser over the lowest heat and cook (dum) 25 minutes.
   • Do not lift the lid during this time.
   • Alternatively, bake at 300°F (150°C) for 25 minutes.

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   Ready when: Steam smells strongly of ghee and spices; chicken reads 165°F (74°C) when probed at the thickest part

   Tip: If you smell scorching, the heat is too high; move the pot to a heavier diffuser.

10. 10

    Rest and serve

    • Turn off the heat and leave the lid on for 10 minutes.
    • Open the lid, then gently fold from the bottom up with a wide spoon so the masala marbles through the rice without breaking the grains.
    • Serve hot with raita, pickle or papadam.

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    Ready when: Grains are fluffy, separate and fully tender, with no hard center

    Tip: Fold gently; stirring hard breaks the long grains and makes the rice sticky.