Chettinad Chicken Biryani

Name: Chettinad Chicken Biryani
Prep time: 30 min
Cook time: 55 min
Total time: 1 h 25 min
Yield: 6 servings
Cuisine: South Indian
Ingredients: 2.2 lb (1000 g) bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, skin removed, cut into medium pieces (thighs halved); ½ cup (120 g) plain whole-milk yogurt, whisked until smooth; 2 tbsp (30 g) ginger-garlic paste; ½ tsp (1 g) ground turmeric; 1 tsp (3 g) Kashmiri red chili powder; 1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh lemon juice; 1½ tsp (4 g) whole black peppercorns; 1 tbsp (6 g) coriander seeds; 1 tsp (2 g) fennel seeds; 1 tsp (2 g) cumin seeds; 5 whole (5 g) dried red chilies, stems removed; 2 whole (2 g) star anise, 1 for the masala, 1 for tempering; 1 tsp (1 g) kalpasi (stone flower), rinsed and patted dry (optional); ⅓ cup (30 g) grated fresh or frozen coconut, thawed if frozen; 2 tbsp (30 g) ghee; 3 tbsp (45 ml) neutral oil or sesame oil; 1 inch (2.5 cm) piece (3 g) cinnamon stick; 4 whole (1 g) whole cloves; 4 whole (2 g) green cardamom pods, lightly crushed; 1 whole (1 g) bay leaf; 2 large (about 11 oz) (300 g) large red onions, thinly sliced; 3 whole (15 g) green chilies, slit lengthwise; 1 sprig (about 15 leaves) (2 g) fresh curry leaves; 2 medium (about 9 oz) (250 g) ripe tomatoes, finely chopped; ½ cup (15 g) fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped, packed; ½ cup (15 g) fresh cilantro, roughly chopped, plus extra for garnish; 2 cups (380 g) seeraga samba rice, rinsed until water runs nearly clear, soaked 30 minutes, then drained well; 2½ cups (600 ml) hot water; 2 tsp (12 g) fine salt, divided: 1 tsp for the marinade, 1 tsp for the rice, adjusted to taste

From the MyKitchenBank Kitchen

A fiery, deeply aromatic one-pot biryani from Tamil Nadu: bone-in chicken simmered in a freshly roasted Chettinad masala of black pepper, star anise and kalpasi (stone flower), then cooked with fragrant seeraga samba rice until every grain is infused.

Prep: 30 min
Cook: 55 min
Wait: 40 min
Total: 2 hr 5 min
Makes: 6 generous servings (about 8 cups cooked biryani)

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Ingredients

6 servings

For the chicken
2¼ lb (1000 g) bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, skin removed, cut into medium pieces (thighs halved)
½ cup (120 g) plain whole-milk yogurt, whisked until smooth
2 tbsp (30 g) ginger-garlic paste
½ tsp (1 g) ground turmeric
1 tsp (3 g) Kashmiri red chili powder
1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
For the Chettinad masala
1½ tsp (4 g) whole black peppercorns
1 tbsp (6 g) coriander seeds
1 tsp (2 g) fennel seeds
1 tsp (2 g) cumin seeds
5 whole (5 g) dried red chilies, stems removed
2 whole (2 g) star anise, 1 for the masala, 1 for tempering
1 tsp (1 g) kalpasi (stone flower), rinsed and patted dry (optional)
⅓ cup (30 g) grated fresh or frozen coconut, thawed if frozen
For the biryani
2 tbsp (30 g) ghee
3 tbsp (45 ml) neutral oil or sesame oil
1 inch (2.5 cm) piece (3 g) cinnamon stick
4 whole (1 g) whole cloves
4 whole (2 g) green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
1 whole (1 g) bay leaf
2 large (about 11 oz) (300 g) large red onions, thinly sliced
3 whole (15 g) green chilies, slit lengthwise
1 sprig (about 15 leaves) (2 g) fresh curry leaves
2 medium (about 9 oz) (250 g) ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
½ cup (15 g) fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped, packed
½ cup (15 g) fresh cilantro, roughly chopped, plus extra for garnish
2 cups (380 g) seeraga samba rice, rinsed until water runs nearly clear, soaked 30 minutes, then drained well
2½ cups (600 ml) hot water
2 tsp (12 g) fine salt, divided: 1 tsp for the marinade, 1 tsp for the rice, adjusted to taste

Equipment (6)

Heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, 4–5 quart (4–5 L), with tight lid
Small dry skillet for toasting spices
Spice grinder or high-speed blender
Large bowl for marinating
Fine-mesh strainer
Instant-read thermometer

Steps

Before you start

Seeraga samba is a tiny, short-grain rice sold in Indian grocery stores. Do not stir it much once it is cooking or it will turn mushy.
Kalpasi (stone flower) is sold at Indian grocers. It is optional but gives the signature earthy Chettinad aroma.
Use a heavy-bottomed 4- to 5-quart (4–5 L) pot with a tight-fitting lid. A thin pot will scorch the bottom.
Have all ingredients measured before you start. Once the onions are frying, the recipe moves quickly.

1
Marinate chicken, soak rice
- Rinse the rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs almost clear, then cover with fresh water and soak for 30 minutes.
- Meanwhile, in a large bowl combine the chicken, yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, Kashmiri chili powder, lemon juice and 1 tsp of the salt.
- Mix well, coating every piece, and leave at room temperature.
- Drain the rice thoroughly in a fine-mesh strainer at the end of the soak.
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Ready when: Rice grains look opaque white and snap easily when pressed between your fingers
Tip: Drain the rice well, since excess water makes the biryani sticky.
2
Toast the masala spices
- Place a small dry skillet over medium-low heat.
- Add the peppercorns, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds, dried red chilies, 1 of the star anise and the kalpasi.
- Stir constantly for 3–4 minutes.
- Tip onto a plate to cool for 5 minutes.
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Ready when: The spices smell strongly toasty and the coriander turns a shade darker; the chilies darken slightly but don't blacken
Tip: Pull the pan off the heat the second it smells fragrant. Burnt spices make the whole pot bitter.
3
Grind the Chettinad masala
- Grind the cooled toasted spices and the coconut in a spice grinder or small blender with 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of water into a thick, slightly coarse paste.
- Scrape down the sides as needed.
- Set aside.
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Ready when: A thick, spreadable paste with no whole seeds visible
4
Fry the onions
- Heat the ghee and oil in the heavy pot over medium-high heat.
- Add the cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, bay leaf and the remaining star anise and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant.
- Add the onions, green chilies and curry leaves with a pinch of salt from the remaining 1 tsp.
- Cook, stirring often, for 10–12 minutes, lowering the heat to medium once they soften.
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Ready when: Onions are soft and deep golden brown at the edges
Tip: If the onions start to catch, splash in 1 tablespoon of water and lower the heat.
5
Cook the masala base
- Add the tomatoes, mint and cilantro and cook 3 minutes until the tomatoes collapse.
- Stir in the ground masala paste and cook for 4–5 minutes, stirring often, until the raw smell is gone.
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Ready when: The oil separates and shimmers around the edges of the thick, jammy masala
6
Cook the chicken
- Add the marinated chicken with all its marinade and stir to coat in the masala.
- Cook uncovered for 4 minutes, stirring, then cover and cook over medium-low heat for 8 minutes, stirring once halfway through.
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Ready when: Chicken is opaque on the outside, about 80% cooked, with a thick, clinging gravy
Tip: The chicken will finish cooking with the rice, so don't overcook it here.
7
Add water and rice
- Pour in the hot water, add the remaining salt and stir.
- Bring to a full boil over high heat.
- Taste the liquid.
- It should taste slightly saltier than soup.
- Gently stir in the drained rice, spreading it into an even layer under the liquid and level with the chicken.
- The liquid should sit about ¼ inch (6 mm) above the rice.
- Bring back to a boil.
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Ready when: Water is vigorously boiling and tastes properly salted
Tip: Stir only once. Over-stirring breaks the delicate seeraga samba grains.
8
Steam on low
- As soon as the liquid returns to a boil, cover with the lid, reduce the heat to the lowest setting, and cook for 15 minutes without lifting the lid.
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Ready when: No bubbling liquid remains on top, and steam holes appear in the surface of the rice
Tip: If your lid is loose, cover the pot with foil first, then the lid, to seal in steam.
9
Rest off the heatOven 175°F / 80°C
- Turn off the heat and leave the pot covered for 10 minutes so the rice finishes steaming and the flavors settle.
- Check that the chicken reaches 175°F (80°C) in the thickest part with an instant-read thermometer.
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Ready when: Chicken reads at least 165°F (74°C), and 175°F (80°C) for tender thighs; juices run clear
Tip: Don't skip the rest. Fluffing too early makes the rice mushy.
10
Fluff and serve
- Remove the lid.
- With a fork or flat spatula, gently fold the rice from the edges to the center, lifting the masala from the bottom.
- Sprinkle with extra chopped cilantro.
- Serve hot with raita and sliced onion.
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Ready when: Grains are separate, tender but slightly firm, evenly colored by the masala

Good to know

Tips

Seeraga samba absorbs less water than basmati, so measure the liquid precisely and keep the lid on during steaming.
Adjust the heat to taste by changing the number of dried and green chilies; Chettinad cooking is traditionally peppery.
Chicken thighs and drumsticks stay juicy during the long steam; boneless breast will dry out.
Serve with onion-cucumber raita to balance the heat.

Make ahead

Marinate the chicken in the fridge up to 12 hours ahead, and grind the masala paste up to 2 days ahead and refrigerate. Bring the chicken to room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking.

Storage & reheating

Room temperature: up to 2 hours. Refrigerator: airtight container up to 3 days. Freezer: up to 2 months. Reheat in a covered pan or microwave with a splash of water per portion until steaming hot (165°F/74°C), stirring once.

Substitutions

seeraga samba rice → aged basmati rice. Soak 30 minutes and reduce the water to 2 cups (480 ml); the flavor is milder and the grains longer.
kalpasi (stone flower) → omit. The biryani will still taste great but will lack the earthy, woody Chettinad note. Add an extra ½ tsp of fennel seeds if you like.
grated fresh or frozen coconut → unsweetened desiccated coconut, soaked in 2 tbsp hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze out excess water before grinding.
plain whole-milk yogurt → coconut yogurt. Works for dairy-free cooking; use unsweetened and replace the ghee with extra oil.