Sri Lankan-Style Coconut Chicken Biryani

Name: Sri Lankan-Style Coconut Chicken Biryani
Prep time: 35 min
Cook time: 1 h 20 min
Total time: 1 h 55 min
Yield: 6 servings
Cuisine: South Indian
Ingredients: 2.6 lb (1200 g) bone-in, skinless chicken thighs and drumsticks, patted dry; thighs cut in half through the bone if large, to give pieces of about 3 oz (85 g); ½ cup (120 g) plain whole-milk yogurt, whisked smooth; 1 tbsp (15 g) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated; 6 cloves (20 g) garlic cloves, finely grated or minced; 1 tsp (3 g) ground turmeric; 2 tsp (5 g) Kashmiri chili powder (or mild paprika with a pinch of cayenne); 1 tbsp (6 g) ground coriander; 2 tsp (4 g) garam masala; 2 tbsp (30 ml) fresh lime juice, freshly squeezed; 2 tsp (7 g) kosher salt (Diamond Crystal); 3 large (600 g) large yellow onions, halved and sliced into thin, even half-moons (⅛ inch / 3 mm); ⅓ cup (80 ml) coconut oil (or neutral oil); 1 piece (2 inch) (5 g) cinnamon stick; 6 pods (1 g) green cardamom pods, lightly crushed; 4 cloves (½ g) whole cloves; 20 leaves (4 g) fresh curry leaves, stripped from the stem; 3 chilies (30 g) green chilies, slit lengthwise, left whole; 2 medium (250 g) ripe medium tomatoes, chopped into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces; 1.7 cups (one 13.5-oz can) (400 ml) full-fat coconut milk, shaken well; 250 ml for the gravy, 60 ml for saffron, 90 ml to drizzle over the rice; 1 cup, packed (30 g) fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped; ½ cup, packed (15 g) fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped; 2 cups (400 g) aged basmati rice, rinsed in several changes of cold water until the water runs nearly clear, then soaked in cold water for 30 minutes and drained; 12 cups (2800 ml) water for boiling the rice; 1 tbsp (10 g) kosher salt (Diamond Crystal); 4 pods (0.7 g) green cardamom pods, lightly crushed; 3 cloves (0.4 g) whole cloves; 1 leaf (½ g) bay leaf; 1 large pinch (0.3 g) saffron threads, lightly crushed (optional); 2 tbsp (28 g) ghee (or unsalted butter), melted

From the MyKitchenBank Kitchen

Bone-in chicken simmered in a fragrant coconut-milk masala with curry leaves and cardamom, layered under par-cooked basmati and sealed for dum steaming. The result is tender chicken, a creamy-spiced base and long, separate, aromatic grains topped with crisp golden onions.

Prep: 35 min
Cook: 1 hr 20 min
Wait: 1 hr 10 min
Total: 3 hr 5 min
Makes: 6 generous servings (one 6-quart pot)

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Ingredients

6 servings

For the marinated chicken
2½ lb (1200 g) bone-in, skinless chicken thighs and drumsticks, patted dry; thighs cut in half through the bone if large, to give pieces of about 3 oz (85 g)
½ cup (120 g) plain whole-milk yogurt, whisked smooth
1 tbsp (15 g) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
6 cloves (20 g) garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
1 tsp (3 g) ground turmeric
2 tsp (5 g) Kashmiri chili powder (or mild paprika with a pinch of cayenne)
1 tbsp (6 g) ground coriander
2 tsp (4 g) garam masala
2 tbsp (30 ml) fresh lime juice, freshly squeezed
2 tsp (7 g) kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
For the masala
3 large (600 g) large yellow onions, halved and sliced into thin, even half-moons (⅛ inch / 3 mm)
⅓ cup (80 ml) coconut oil (or neutral oil)
1 piece (2 inch) (5 g) cinnamon stick
6 pods (1 g) green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
4 cloves (0.5 g) whole cloves
20 leaves (4 g) fresh curry leaves, stripped from the stem
3 chilies (30 g) green chilies, slit lengthwise, left whole
2 medium (250 g) ripe medium tomatoes, chopped into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces
1⅔ cups (one 13.5-oz can) (400 ml) full-fat coconut milk, shaken well; 250 ml for the gravy, 60 ml for saffron, 90 ml to drizzle over the rice
1 cup, packed (30 g) fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped
½ cup, packed (15 g) fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped
For the rice
2 cups (400 g) aged basmati rice, rinsed in several changes of cold water until the water runs nearly clear, then soaked in cold water for 30 minutes and drained
12 cups (2800 ml) water for boiling the rice
1 tbsp (10 g) kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
4 pods (0.7 g) green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
3 cloves (0.4 g) whole cloves
1 leaf (0.5 g) bay leaf
For layering
1 large pinch (0.3 g) saffron threads, lightly crushed (optional)
2 tbsp (28 g) ghee (or unsalted butter), melted

Equipment (7)

6-quart (5.5 L), 11-inch (28 cm) wide heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven with tight-fitting lid
Large bowl for marinating
Large pot (5 L) for boiling rice
Fine-mesh strainer or colander
Slotted spoon and paper towels
Heavy foil, plus a flat griddle or tawa to set under the pot (optional)
Instant-read thermometer

Steps

Before you start

Marinate the chicken at least 1 hour (up to 12 hours in the fridge). Plan the rice soak to overlap with it.
Shake the can of coconut milk well before opening. Use full-fat coconut milk, not light, so the gravy doesn't turn thin.
You need a wide, heavy 6-quart (5.5 L) pot with a tight lid, plus foil, to trap steam during the dum stage.
The rice is only parboiled, to about 70% done. It finishes cooking in the steam, so don't boil it longer.

1
Marinate and soak
- In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, ginger, garlic, turmeric, chili powder, ground coriander, garam masala, lime juice and 2 tsp salt.
- Add the chicken and turn with your hands until every piece is coated.
- Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
- While it marinates, slice the onions, chop the tomatoes, cilantro and mint, and rinse the basmati until the water runs nearly clear.
- Soak the rice in cold water for 30 minutes, then drain well.
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Ready when: Chicken is evenly coated in a thick, orange-gold marinade
Tip: Don't marinate longer than 12 hours. The lime and yogurt acid will make the meat mushy.
2
Fry the onions
- Heat the coconut oil in the 6-quart pot over medium-high heat until shimmering.
- Add all the sliced onions with a pinch of salt and fry, stirring every minute or so, for 12 to 15 minutes.
- Lower the heat to medium as they color.
- When about half the onions are deep golden brown and crisp at the edges, lift roughly half (about a heaping cup) with a slotted spoon onto paper towels, leaving the oil in the pot.
- They will crisp as they cool.
- Leave the rest in the pot.
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Ready when: Onions are deep golden brown, not dark brown or bitter-smelling; removed ones turn crisp as they cool
Tip: Keep stirring near the end. Onions go from golden to burnt within a minute.
3
Build the masala base
- Reduce heat to medium.
- To the onions left in the pot, add the cinnamon stick, 6 cardamom pods, 4 cloves, curry leaves and slit green chilies.
- Stir for 30 to 40 seconds until the curry leaves crackle and the spices smell fragrant.
- Add the chopped tomatoes and cook, stirring and mashing, for 5 to 6 minutes until they collapse into a soft paste and the oil begins to glisten at the edges.
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Ready when: Tomatoes have broken down into a jammy paste with oil glistening at the edges
Tip: Curry leaves spit when they hit hot oil. Stand back and keep a lid handy.
4
Simmer chicken in coconut
- Raise heat to medium-high.
- Add the chicken with all its marinade and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes until the surface turns opaque.
- Pour in 250 ml (1 cup) of the coconut milk and stir in half of the chopped cilantro and mint.
- Bring to a gentle simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover and cook for 15 minutes, stirring once or twice.
- Uncover for the last few minutes if the gravy looks thin.
- Level the chicken in an even layer and turn off the heat.
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Ready when: Chicken is about 80% cooked (firm, but still slightly pink at the bone) and the gravy is thick enough to cling to the meat, not watery
Tip: The gravy must be thick. A loose sauce will turn the bottom layer of rice to mush.
5
Parboil the rice
- While the chicken simmers, bring 12 cups (2.8 L) water to a rolling boil in a large pot with the salt, 4 cardamom pods, 3 cloves and the bay leaf.
- Add the drained rice, stir once and boil over high heat for 5 to 6 minutes.
- Test a grain: it should snap easily when pressed between your fingers but still have a firm, white pin-point core.
- Drain immediately in a colander without rinsing.
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Ready when: Grains are elongated and about 70% cooked, with a small hard white core
Tip: Err on the side of undercooked. Rice that is soft now will be mushy after dum.
6
Infuse the saffron
- Warm 60 ml (¼ cup) of the coconut milk in a small cup in the microwave for 15 to 20 seconds until warm, not hot.
- Stir in the crushed saffron and let it steep while you layer.
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Ready when: Milk turns a deep golden-orange
Tip: Skip the saffron if you don't have it. The biryani is still delicious with turmeric from the masala.
7
Layer the biryani
- Spread the chicken and gravy in an even layer across the bottom of the pot.
- Scatter the drained rice on top in a loose mound, without pressing down.
- Sprinkle with the reserved crisp onions and the remaining cilantro and mint.
- Drizzle the saffron coconut milk in streaks over the rice, then pour the remaining 90 ml (⅓ cup) of plain coconut milk and the melted ghee evenly over the surface.
- Poke 4 to 5 holes down through the rice with the handle of a wooden spoon so steam can travel.
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Ready when: Rice sits in a loose, even layer with saffron streaks across the top
Tip: Don't stir or press the rice. Packed rice steams unevenly.
8
Seal and dum
- Cover the pot with a sheet of foil pressed around the rim, then set the lid on firmly (weigh it down with a can if it rattles).
- Place over medium-high heat for 3 minutes, until you see steam escaping around the edges.
- Then turn the heat to the lowest setting, set the pot on a griddle or tawa if you have one, and cook undisturbed for 25 minutes.
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Ready when: A steady stream of steam and a rich aroma of cardamom and coconut; no burnt smell
Tip: Don't open the lid during dum. Escaping steam is the one thing that ruins the texture.
9
Rest the pot
- Turn off the heat and leave the pot sealed for 10 minutes so the steam settles and the rice firms up.
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Ready when: Rice has absorbed the surface moisture and no longer looks wet
10
Fluff and serveOven 165°F / 75°C
- Remove the foil and lid.
- Check that the thickest chicken piece reads 165°F (74°C) or higher at the bone.
- Use a wide spoon to lift from the bottom and gently fold the rice and chicken together, keeping grains whole.
- Serve hot with raita, cucumber-tomato salad or a squeeze of lime.
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Ready when: Chicken reads at least 165°F (74°C) and the juices run clear; rice grains are tender, long and separate
Tip: Fold from the bottom up in broad strokes to avoid breaking the rice.

Good to know

Tips

Use aged basmati and rinse well. Fresh, starchy rice clumps and goes gluey.
A wide, heavy pot and a flat griddle underneath prevent scorching of the bottom layer during dum.
Taste the boiling rice water. It should taste pleasantly salty like the sea, since the rice absorbs the seasoning.
For more heat, leave the seeds in the green chilies or add an extra 1 tsp chili powder to the marinade.

Make ahead

"Marinate the chicken up to 12 hours ahead, and fry the onions up to 1 day ahead (store the crisp ones in an airtight container at room temperature). The chicken masala (through step 4) can be cooked 1 day ahead and refrigerated; rewarm until simmering before layering with freshly parboiled rice."

Storage & reheating

"Room temperature: up to 2 hours after cooking. Refrigerator: airtight container for up to 3 days. Freezer: up to 2 months in portions. Reheat in the microwave, covered, with 1 to 2 tbsp water per portion for 2 to 3 minutes until steaming hot throughout (165°F / 74°C), or in a covered pan over low heat."

Substitutions

bone-in, skinless chicken thighs and drumsticks → bone-in chicken breast pieces or goat/lamb. Breast cooks faster, so cut into large pieces and cut the gravy simmer to 10 minutes. Goat or lamb needs 45 to 60 minutes of simmering before layering.
fresh curry leaves → 2 bay leaves plus 1 tsp lime zest. Won't taste identical, but gives a similar herbal aroma. Fresh curry leaves are strongly recommended.
plain whole-milk yogurt → full-fat coconut yogurt. Use unsweetened for a dairy-free marinade and replace ghee with coconut oil.
saffron threads → ¼ tsp ground turmeric. Gives colour but not saffron's perfume. Stir it into the warm coconut milk.