Miso Beef Burgers with Pickled Ginger Slaw

Juicy pan-seared beef patties are seasoned with white miso for a deep, savory flavor and a dark crust. They're stacked on toasted buns with miso mayo and a crunchy, tangy slaw of cabbage, carrot, pickled ginger and toasted sesame.

Prep
23 min
Cook
12 min
Wait
15 min
Total
50 min
Makes
4 burgers
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Steps

Before you start
  • Keep the beef refrigerated until you're ready to mix. Cold fat keeps the patties tender and juicy.
  • Shred the cabbage as thinly as you can with a sharp knife or mandoline, because thin strands soften evenly in the dressing.
  • Turn on your stove vent and have a instant-read thermometer ready. Miso browns fast, so the pan will smoke a little.
  • Miso is salty, so the patties get no added salt. Taste your miso first. If it's very salty, use the lower amount of soy sauce or skip it.
  1. Dress the slaw

    • In a large bowl, whisk the pickled ginger brine, rice vinegar, toasted sesame oil, sugar and salt until the sugar dissolves.
    • Add the shredded cabbage, grated carrot, chopped pickled ginger and 1 tablespoon sesame seeds.
    • Toss well with tongs, squeezing gently as you go so the cabbage begins to soften.
    • Set aside at room temperature while you make the burgers.
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    Ready when: The cabbage looks glossy and has begun to wilt slightly but still crunches when you bite it.

    Tip: Taste a strand. If it's too sharp, add another pinch of sugar. If it's flat, add a splash of ginger brine.

  2. Mix the miso mayo

    • In a small bowl, stir the mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon white miso together with a spoon until completely smooth with no streaks.
    • Cover and refrigerate until serving.
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    Ready when: The mayo is a uniform pale tan color and smooth.

  3. Season the beef

    • In a large bowl, mash 2 tablespoons white miso, the soy sauce, grated garlic, sliced scallions and black pepper together with a fork into a loose paste.
    • Add the cold ground beef.
    • With your fingertips, gently fold and toss the beef until the seasoning is just distributed, about 20 seconds.
    • Stop as soon as you no longer see pockets of miso.
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    Ready when: The meat is evenly flecked with miso and scallion but still looks loose and crumbly, not pasty.

    Tip: Overmixing makes dense, rubbery burgers. Handle the meat as little as possible.

  4. Shape and chill

    • Divide the beef into 4 equal portions of about 170 g (6 oz) each.
    • Gently shape each into a patty about 4 inches (10 cm) wide and ¾ inch (2 cm) thick.
    • Press a shallow dimple into the center of each with your thumb to stop them puffing up.
    • Sprinkle the tops evenly with the 1 tablespoon sesame seeds and press them lightly in.
    • Place on a parchment-lined plate and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
    • The slaw continues to soften during this time.
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    Ready when: Patties feel firm to the touch and keep their shape when lifted.

    Tip: Make the patties slightly wider than the buns, because they shrink by about ½ inch as they cook.

  5. Heat the skillet

    • Set a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat and add the neutral oil.
    • Heat for about 2 minutes, until the oil shimmers and flows like water and a faint wisp of smoke rises.
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    Ready when: The oil shimmers across the whole pan surface.

    Tip: Turn on the vent. Miso sugars brown quickly, so don't go hotter than medium-high or the crust will scorch before the center cooks.

  6. Sear the first side

    • Lay the patties sesame-side up in the hot pan, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) between them.
    • Cook without moving or pressing for 4 minutes, until the underside is a deep mahogany crust and the edges look browned about ¼ inch up the sides.
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    Ready when: The patties release easily from the pan and the underside is deep brown.

    Tip: Never press down on the patties with the spatula. That squeezes out the juices.

  7. Flip and finishOven 160°F / 70°C

    • Flip the patties once.
    • Cook for 3 to 4 more minutes, until the sesame side is browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted horizontally into the center of a patty reads 160°F (71°C).
    • Move the patties to a clean plate.
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    Ready when: Thermometer reads 160°F (71°C) in the center and the juices run clear to light pink.

    Tip: Ground beef must reach 160°F (71°C) to be safe. If the crust is browning too fast, lower the heat to medium.

  8. Toast the buns

    • Pour off all but a thin film of fat from the skillet and lower the heat to medium.
    • Spread the softened butter over the cut sides of the buns.
    • Place them cut-side down in the pan and toast for 1 to 2 minutes until golden.
    • The patties rest on the plate while you do this.
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    Ready when: The cut sides are golden brown and smell toasty.

    Tip: Watch closely, because brioche burns within seconds once it starts to color.

  9. Assemble and serve

    • Spread about 1 tablespoon miso mayo on both cut sides of each bun.
    • Set a patty on each bottom bun, pile on a generous handful of slaw, and cap with the top bun.
    • Serve right away with extra slaw on the side.
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    Ready when: Burgers are stacked and the slaw is still crisp.

    Tip: Drain the slaw briefly with tongs before piling it on so extra dressing doesn't soak the bun.

Good to know

Tips
  • Chill the patties before cooking. Cold patties sear to a better crust without overcooking inside.
  • Use a heavy pan for the best crust, and avoid nonstick if you can, because it won't brown the miso as deeply.
  • Dress the slaw before you start the burgers but not much earlier than 30 minutes ahead if you want it crisp.
  • Add a slice of sharp cheddar or American cheese during the last minute of cooking if you want a cheeseburger.
Make ahead

"The slaw can be made up to 4 hours ahead and refrigerated. Drain off any liquid before serving. The miso mayo keeps for 3 days in the refrigerator. The patties can be shaped, covered and refrigerated up to 8 hours before cooking."

Storage & reheating

"Cooked patties keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat in a covered skillet over medium-low heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until steaming hot (165°F / 74°C). Slaw keeps 2 days in the refrigerator but loses crunch. Uncooked shaped patties freeze for up to 2 months, separated with parchment. Cook from frozen, adding 2 to 3 minutes per side, or thaw overnight in the refrigerator. Store assembled burgers at room temperature for no more than 2 hours."

Substitutions
  • white miso paste → Yellow (shinshu) miso. Slightly deeper and saltier. Use 1½ tablespoons instead of 2 and skip the soy sauce.
  • ground beef, 80% lean / 20% fat → Ground pork or dark-meat ground turkey. Cook pork or turkey to 165°F (74°C). Turkey is leaner, so add 1 tablespoon of oil to the mixture.
  • mayonnaise → Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise. Richer and tangier, and it makes the miso mayo even more savory.
  • brioche hamburger buns → Potato rolls or lettuce wraps. Potato rolls toast the same way. For lettuce wraps, use large butter lettuce leaves and skip the butter.

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Meal
Dinner
Cuisine
Japanese
Main ingredient
Ground Beef
Diet
Halal
Method
Stovetop
Quick & Easy
EasyMake Ahead

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