Sri Lankan Pumpkin Curry (Wattakka Kolu)
Soft cubes of sweet pumpkin simmered in creamy coconut milk with toasted fenugreek, cinnamon, mustard seeds and fresh curry leaves. This mildly spicy, fully vegan curry is a staple of Sri Lankan rice-and-curry meals.
- Prep
- 20 min
- Cook
- 36 min
- Wait
- 5 min
- Total
- 1 hr 1 min
- Makes
- About 5 cups (4 servings as part of a rice-and-curry meal)
Steps
Before you start
- Measure all spices into small bowls before you turn on the heat. The whole-spice step takes only about 30 seconds and fenugreek turns bitter if it burns.
- Shake the can of coconut milk very well so the cream and liquid are blended before you open it.
- Peel and cube the pumpkin into pieces of similar size (1½ inches / 4 cm) so they cook evenly.
- Sri Lankan roasted curry powder is darker and more aromatic than standard curry powder. If you can't get it, see the substitutions.
Prep the pumpkin
- Cut the pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds, then peel with a sturdy peeler or paring knife (kabocha skin is edible, so you can leave it on if you prefer).
- Cut the flesh into 1½-inch (4 cm) cubes.
- Slice the onion, chop the garlic, grate the ginger, slit the chilies and strip the curry leaves from their stems.
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Ready when: Pumpkin pieces are roughly equal in size, about 1½ inches (4 cm).
Tip: Squash is slippery. Cut a thin slice off one side so it sits flat on the board before you peel.
Temper whole spices
- Heat the coconut oil in a 12-inch (30 cm) deep skillet over medium heat for 1 minute.
- Add the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and cinnamon stick.
- Stir constantly for 30 to 45 seconds.
- Add the curry leaves (stand back, they spit) and stir for another 15 seconds.
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Ready when: Mustard seeds pop, fenugreek turns light golden (not dark brown), and the curry leaves turn crisp and smell fragrant.
Tip: If the fenugreek turns dark brown it will make the curry bitter. Lift the pan off the heat and start over if needed.
Soften the aromatics
- Add the onion, garlic, ginger, green chilies and a pinch of the salt.
- Cook, stirring often, for 6 to 7 minutes.
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Ready when: Onion is soft, translucent and just starting to turn golden at the edges; the garlic smells sweet, not sharp.
Tip: If the garlic starts to brown before the onion softens, lower the heat and add a splash of water.
Bloom the ground spices
- Stir in the curry powder, turmeric and the chili powder, if using.
- Cook for 45 to 60 seconds, stirring constantly so the spices coat the onions and don't stick.
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Ready when: The mixture looks like a thick, fragrant paste and smells toasty.
Tip: Add 1 tablespoon of water if the spices start to stick to the pan.
Simmer the pumpkin
- Add the pumpkin, the remaining salt and the water.
- Stir to coat the pumpkin in the spices.
- Bring to a gentle simmer, cover and cook for 13 to 15 minutes, stirring once halfway through.
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Ready when: A knife slides into a cube with slight resistance, and the edges of the pieces are just starting to soften.
Tip: Keep the heat low enough that the liquid barely bubbles, or the water will cook off before the pumpkin softens.
Add the coconut milk
- Pour in the shaken coconut milk and stir gently.
- Simmer uncovered for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Near the end, press a few pumpkin cubes against the side of the pan with the back of the spoon to thicken the sauce.
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Ready when: Pumpkin is fork-tender but mostly holds its shape, and the sauce coats the back of a spoon with a thin film of orange-tinged coconut oil on top.
Tip: Don't boil hard. A rapid boil can make coconut milk split and look grainy.
Finish and rest
- Turn off the heat.
- Remove the cinnamon stick if you like.
- Stir in the lime juice, then taste and add up to ¼ teaspoon more salt if needed.
- Cover and rest for 5 minutes so the flavors settle and the sauce thickens slightly.
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Ready when: The sauce is creamy and balanced: sweet from the pumpkin, with a gentle heat and a slight tang from the lime.
Tip: Add the lime juice off the heat to keep its flavor bright.
Serve
- Spoon the curry into a warm serving bowl and serve with steamed basmati or red rice, dhal, and a sambol or fresh salad.
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Tip: Warn guests about the whole chilies, cinnamon stick and curry leaves. They are for flavor and are not usually eaten.
Good to know
Tips
- Cut the pumpkin into even pieces. Small pieces turn to mush while large ones stay hard.
- Cook the pumpkin in water first and add the coconut milk later. The pumpkin softens faster, and the coconut milk stays smooth.
- For a hotter curry, leave the chili seeds in and increase the chili powder to 1 teaspoon.
- For extra authenticity, add a 2-inch (5 cm) piece of pandan leaf along with the pumpkin if you can find it.
Make ahead
"The curry tastes even better the next day. Make it up to 2 days ahead, cool it completely, and refrigerate in an airtight container. Reheat gently, adding a splash of water if the sauce has thickened. You can also peel and cube the pumpkin up to 1 day ahead and keep it covered in the fridge."
Storage & reheating
"Room temperature: up to 2 hours. Fridge: up to 4 days in an airtight container. Freezer: up to 2 months, though the pumpkin will be softer after thawing. Thaw overnight in the fridge, then reheat in a saucepan over low heat, stirring gently, for 5 to 8 minutes until steaming hot. Add a splash of water or coconut milk to loosen the sauce."
Substitutions
- pumpkin (kabocha or butternut squash) → Butternut squash or calabaza. Butternut cooks in the same time. Calabaza is closest to the pumpkin used in Sri Lanka. Avoid watery carving pumpkins.
- fresh curry leaves → Omit, or use 2 bay leaves. The flavor will be different, since curry leaves have no true substitute. Dried curry leaves work if you use about 30.
- Sri Lankan roasted curry powder → 1 tsp ground coriander + ½ tsp ground cumin + ¼ tsp ground fennel + a pinch of black pepper. Approximates the roasted Sri Lankan blend. Toast the spices in a dry pan first for a deeper flavor.
- full-fat coconut milk → 1 cup (240 ml) coconut cream plus ¼ cup (60 ml) water. Gives a richer, thicker curry. Light coconut milk works too but gives a thinner sauce.
