Piedmontese Baked Tajarin with Veal Ragù and Truffle

Steps

1. 1

   Make the tajarin dough

   • Mound the flour on a clean countertop or work surface.
   • Use your fingers to create a well in the center about 4 inches across.
   • Crack the eggs into the well and add the salt and olive oil.
   • Using a fork, begin beating the eggs gently as if making an omelet, then gradually incorporate flour from the inner walls of the well.
   • Once the dough is shaggy and no large dry flour remains, use your hands to knead it firmly for 8–10 minutes until it becomes smooth, elastic, and slightly sticky.
   • If the dough is too dry, wet your hand and continue kneading; if too wet, dust with a little flour.
   • Form into a ball, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour (or refrigerate up to 8 hours; bring to room temperature before rolling).

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   Ready when: Dough is smooth, elastic, and holds together when formed into a ball

   Tip: Use your fingertips to prevent the dough from drying out; if the well breaks during mixing, shore it up with a small amount of flour to contain the eggs

2. 2

   Begin the veal ragù

   • In a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or wide, heavy pot, heat over medium heat.
   • Add the diced pancetta and cook for 3–4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it begins to render its fat.
   • Add the diced onion, carrot, and celery (the classic soffritto) and cook for 5–6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and fragrant.
   • The vegetables should be tender but not browned.

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   Ready when: Vegetables are softened and fragrant; pancetta fat is released

   Tip: Do not allow the soffritto to brown; you want a gentle, aromatic base

3. 3

   Brown the veal

   • Increase heat to medium-high.
   • Add the cold ground veal in small handfuls, breaking it apart with a wooden spoon as it cooks.
   • Stir frequently to prevent lumps from forming and to ensure even browning.
   • Cook for 8–10 minutes until the veal is no longer pink and has taken on a light brown color.
   • The meat should be in small, individual pieces, not clumped together.

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   Ready when: Veal is no longer pink; meat is broken into small pieces and lightly browned

   Tip: Cold meat breaks apart more easily; if the veal is warm, break it up in your hands before adding to the pot

4. 4

   Build the ragù base

   • Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until it darkens slightly and coats the meat.
   • Pour in the Burgundy wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot.
   • Simmer for 3–4 minutes to allow the wine to reduce slightly and concentrate.
   • The smell should be rich and winy.

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   Ready when: Wine has reduced by about a third; aroma is concentrated

   Tip: Scraping the bottom of the pot releases fond (caramelized bits) that deepen the ragù's flavor

5. 5

   Add stock and herbs, simmer ragù

   • Pour in the beef stock.
   • Add the bay leaf and thyme sprigs.
   • Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot with a lid, and simmer gently for 1 hour, stirring occasionally (every 15–20 minutes).
   • The ragù should bubble very gently; if it's simmering too vigorously, reduce heat further.
   • After 1 hour, add the milk and the butter, stirring well to combine.
   • Continue simmering, partially covered, for an additional 1 hour until the ragù has thickened and the flavors are deeply melded.
   • The sauce should coat the back of a spoon and look rich and glossy.

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   Ready when: Ragù is thickened, glossy, and coats the back of a spoon; flavors are harmonious and rich

   Tip: Low heat is crucial; a boiling ragù will become tough and break. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking and ensure even cooking. If the ragù is drying out, add a splash more stock

6. 6

   Season and finish the ragù

   • Remove from heat and fish out the bay leaf and thyme sprigs.
   • Taste the ragù and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to your preference.
   • The ragù can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored in the refrigerator; reheat gently over low heat before assembly.

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   Ready when: Ragù is seasoned to taste; no bitter or one-dimensional flavors

   Tip: Taste before adding much salt; the Parmigiano-Reggiano in the final dish will add saltiness

7. 7

   Roll and cut the tajarin

   • Set up a pasta machine according to its instructions.
   • Cut the dough into 4 equal portions.
   • Working with one portion at a time (keep the rest wrapped), press it into a rough oval and feed it through the pasta machine set to the widest setting.
   • Fold the sheet in half and feed it through again (this develops gluten).
   • Repeat the widest setting 1–2 more times until smooth, then progressively narrow the setting, feeding the dough through twice at each setting, until the sheet is thin enough to see your hand through it (between the second-to-last and finest settings).
   • Lay the sheet on a lightly floured surface and let it rest for 2–3 minutes.
   • Using a sharp knife or pastry wheel, cut the dried (or semi-dried) sheet into ribbons about ¼ inch (6 mm) wide.
   • These are the tajarin.
   • Repeat with the remaining dough portions.
   • Let the pasta dry on floured sheets for at least 15 minutes before cooking.

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   Ready when: Ribbon pasta is thin, uniform, and slightly firm to the touch

   Tip: If sheets become too sticky, dust with flour; if they dry too much before cutting, they become brittle—work with small portions and move quickly. Fresh tajarin cook faster than dried, so adjust boiling time accordingly

8. 8

   Cook the tajarin

   • Bring a large pot (6-quart / 5.7 L) of salted water to a rolling boil.
   • Add the tajarin in batches, stirring gently to separate the ribbons.
   • Fresh or semi-dried tajarin typically cook in 2–3 minutes; dried tajarin may take 4–5 minutes.
   • Taste frequently; the pasta should be al dente, with a slight firmness when bitten.
   • Reserve 1 cup (240 ml) of pasta cooking water, then drain the tajarin gently in a colander without rinsing (the starch helps the dish hold together).

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   Ready when: Tajarin are al dente, tender but with a slight firmness when bitten

   Tip: Do not rinse the pasta; the coating of starch helps bind the assembled dish. If unsure about doneness, taste a piece directly from the pot

9. 9

   Preheat the oven and prepare the baking dishOven 375°F / 190°C

   • While the pasta cooks, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
   • Using softened butter, generously coat the bottom and sides of a 9×13-inch (23×33 cm) baking dish.

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   Ready when: Oven is preheated to 375°F (190°C) and baking dish is coated evenly

   Tip: Buttering the dish prevents sticking and adds richness to the finished dish

10. 10

    Assemble the baked tajarin

    • Spread a thin layer of veal ragù (about ½ cup / 120 ml) over the bottom of the prepared baking dish.
    • Add half of the cooked tajarin in an even layer, breaking long strands if needed so they lay flat.
    • Spoon half of the remaining ragù over the pasta, then sprinkle with half of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 3 tablespoons / 20 g).
    • Layer the remaining tajarin on top, followed by the rest of the ragù, and finish with the remaining cheese.
    • If the dish looks dry, add a few tablespoons of reserved pasta water to moisten (the ragù should look glossy and loose; it will concentrate as it bakes).

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    Ready when: Baking dish is filled with three distinct layers of pasta, ragù, and cheese

    Tip: Do not pack the pasta down; let the layers nestle gently. The pasta will set as it bakes

11. 11

    Bake until bubbly and goldenOven 375°F / 190°C

    • Cover the baking dish loosely with aluminum foil (or parchment paper) to prevent the top from browning too quickly.
    • Bake at 375°F (190°C) for 20 minutes.
    • Remove the foil and bake for an additional 10–15 minutes until the top is lightly golden, the sauce is bubbling at the edges, and the dish is heated through.
    • The surface should have a light golden color but should not be overly browned (watch carefully in the final minutes).

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    Ready when: Top is lightly golden; sauce bubbles at the edges; a knife inserted into the center goes through easily

    Tip: If the top seems to be browning too quickly, tent with foil for the remaining bake time. The dish will set slightly as it rests, so avoid overbaking

12. 12

    Rest and shave truffle

    • Remove the baking dish from the oven and let it rest, uncovered, for 5 minutes.
    • Meanwhile, chill a truffle shaver or microplane grater in the refrigerator.
    • Using the chilled shaver, shave thin, delicate slices of black truffle directly over the warm baked tajarin, covering the surface generously.
    • If using the optional melted butter, drizzle it lightly over the truffle to help carry its aroma.
    • Serve immediately while the dish is still warm and the truffle perfume is most potent.

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    Ready when: Dish has rested; truffle is shaved and visible on the surface

    Tip: Truffle's volatile oils dissipate quickly; shave it just before serving for maximum aroma and flavor. A cold shaver creates thinner, more elegant slices