Kathal Biryani (Dum Jackfruit Biryani)

Meaty young jackfruit is marinated in spiced yogurt, cooked until thick and glossy, then layered with par-cooked basmati, golden fried onions, fresh herbs, saffron milk and kewra water. A sealed dum steam melds everything into a fragrant, restaurant-style vegetarian biryani.

Prep
30 min
Cook
1 hr 10 min
Wait
1 hr 10 min
Total
2 hr 50 min
Makes
6 generous servings (about 9 cups biryani)
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Steps

Before you start
  • Use young green (raw) jackfruit, either fresh or canned in brine, never canned in syrup. Drain canned jackfruit, rinse it well, and squeeze it dry or the biryani will turn watery.
  • Allow about 3 hours total: 1 hour of marinating, about 70 minutes of cooking, and a 10-minute rest before serving.
  • Use a heavy-bottomed 5-quart (4.5 L) pot or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid, so steam stays in during the dum.
  • Whisk the yogurt smooth and take it out of the fridge 20 minutes ahead. Cold yogurt can split when it hits the hot pan.
  • Look for kewra water (pandan-flower essence) at Indian or Middle Eastern grocers. Use a light hand, because it is potent.
  1. Marinate jackfruit, soak rice

    • In a large bowl, combine the jackfruit, yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, chili powder, turmeric, ground coriander, garam masala, lemon juice, marinade oil and 1½ tsp salt.
    • Toss with your hands until every piece is coated.
    • Cover and leave at room temperature (or refrigerate if your kitchen is hot) for 1 hour.
    • Meanwhile, put the rinsed basmati in a separate bowl, cover with plenty of cold water, and soak for 30 minutes.
    • Drain well in a strainer and let it sit for 10 minutes before boiling.
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    Ready when: Jackfruit is evenly coated in thick, orange-red marinade; soaked rice grains are opaque white and fully drained.

    Tip: Squeeze the jackfruit really dry before marinating, otherwise the extra water will thin the yogurt and make the biryani soggy.

  2. Fry the onions

    • Heat the frying oil in a wide skillet over medium heat for 1 minute.
    • Add the sliced onions and cook, stirring every minute or so at first and constantly near the end, for 18–20 minutes.
    • Lift the onions out with a slotted spoon onto a plate lined with paper towels, spreading them in a single layer.
    • They will crisp further as they cool.
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    Ready when: Onions are deep golden brown, with some edges darker amber, and crisp once cooled.

    Tip: Remove the onions when they are a shade lighter than you want. They keep darkening from residual heat, and burnt onions turn the biryani bitter.

  3. Prepare saffron, herbs, seal

    • Warm the milk until hot to the touch but not boiling, crumble in the saffron, and let it steep for at least 10 minutes until the milk is deep orange.
    • Chop the mint and cilantro and slit the green chilies.
    • Mix the flour with the dough water, kneading for 1 minute into a firm, pliable dough, and roll it into a long rope that will fit around the rim of the pot.
    • Cover with a damp cloth.
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    Ready when: Milk is deep orange; dough is smooth and not sticky.

    Tip: If the dough is sticky, dust with a little extra flour so it doesn't cling to the pot.

  4. Cook the jackfruit masala

    • In the 5-quart pot, heat 2 tbsp of the ghee over medium heat.
    • Add 4 cardamom pods, 4 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves and the caraway seeds.
    • Cook 30–40 seconds until fragrant and the cloves puff slightly.
    • Add the marinated jackfruit with all the marinade.
    • Cook, stirring gently every 2 minutes, for 12–15 minutes.
    • Stir in a handful (about one third) of the fried onions in the last 2 minutes.
    • Turn off the heat and spread the masala in an even layer on the bottom of the pot.
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    Ready when: The yogurt gravy is thick and clings to the jackfruit, with ghee shimmering at the edges; no watery liquid pools in the pot.

    Tip: If the yogurt looks curdled, don't worry. It is normal and will smooth out during the dum.

  5. Parboil the rice

    • In the large pot, bring the 10 cups of water to a rolling boil with 1 tbsp salt, 4 cardamom pods, 4 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick and 1 bay leaf.
    • Add the drained rice and boil hard, uncovered, for 5–6 minutes.
    • Test a grain by pressing it between your fingers: it should snap easily but still have a thin white, hard core at the center.
    • Drain immediately in a colander and shake off excess water.
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    Ready when: Grains are about 75% cooked: elongated, tender on the outside, with a thin firm core. The water should taste as salty as mild seawater.

    Tip: Do not overcook the rice here. It finishes cooking in the steam, and soft rice turns to mush.

  6. Layer the biryani

    • Spoon half of the parboiled rice (whole spices included) over the jackfruit in an even layer, without pressing down.
    • Scatter over half of the mint, cilantro, green chilies and half of the remaining fried onions, and drizzle with 1 tbsp of the melted ghee.
    • Add the remaining rice in an even layer and top with the rest of the herbs, chilies and onions.
    • Drizzle the saffron milk in streaks over the top, then sprinkle with the kewra water and the remaining 1 tbsp ghee.
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    Ready when: Rice is piled loosely in two layers with saffron streaks of orange visible on top.

    Tip: Kewra water is strong; stick to 1 tbsp so the biryani smells floral, not perfumey.

  7. Seal and cook on dum

    • Press the dough rope around the rim of the pot, set the lid on top and press down firmly to seal completely (or cover with foil first, then the lid).
    • Place the pot over high heat for 3–4 minutes until you see steam puffing at the seal and smell the spices.
    • Place a hot tawa or heavy skillet under the pot, reduce the heat to the lowest setting, and cook undisturbed for 25 minutes.
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    Ready when: Steam hisses steadily from the seal and the whole kitchen smells of saffron and spices. The dough crust is hard and dry.

    Tip: Do not lift the lid during dum. Escaping steam is the most common reason for undercooked rice.

  8. Rest the biryani

    • Turn off the heat and leave the pot sealed for 10 minutes.
    • Then break the dough seal and remove the lid, angling it away from you to avoid steam.
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    Ready when: The seal cracks off easily and a fragrant cloud of steam rises when the lid comes off.

  9. Fluff and serve

    • Using a flat spoon, gently dig down along the side of the pot to the bottom and lift up, so each portion holds white rice, saffron rice and jackfruit masala.
    • Take out the whole cardamom, cinnamon and bay leaves if you like.
    • Serve hot with raita, sliced onion and lemon wedges.
    + Show details

    Ready when: Rice grains are long, separate and fully tender, and the jackfruit is soft enough to pull apart easily with a fork.

    Tip: Fold gently from the bottom rather than stirring, so the long grains don't break.

Good to know

Tips
  • Canned jackfruit in brine is a reliable shortcut. Rinse it thoroughly, because the brine can taste sour and salty.
  • If you cannot get a good seal, put a layer of foil under the lid and weigh the lid down with a heavy can.
  • Aged basmati gives the longest, driest grains. Rinse until the water is almost clear to remove excess starch and prevent clumping.
  • If your stove runs hot, keep the tawa under the pot and check for a scorched smell after 15 minutes of dum. The bottom jackfruit layer should be saucy, not burnt.
Make ahead

"Marinate the jackfruit up to 24 hours ahead in the fridge. Fry the onions up to 2 days ahead and store them in an airtight container at room temperature. Bring the marinated jackfruit to room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking."

Storage & reheating

"Room temperature: up to 2 hours after cooking. Fridge: store in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Freezer: up to 2 months in portioned freezer-safe containers; thaw overnight in the fridge. Reheat covered in the microwave for 2–3 minutes with 1 tbsp of water sprinkled over the top, or in a covered pan over low heat for 8–10 minutes, until steaming hot throughout."

Substitutions
  • kewra water → 1 tsp rose water, or omit. Rose water is a bit sweeter and floral; use less since it is stronger. Skipping it still gives a delicious biryani.
  • plain whole-milk yogurt → Thick unsweetened coconut or cashew yogurt. Makes the dish vegan when paired with oil in place of ghee; choose an unsweetened variety.
  • caraway seeds (shahi jeera) → Cumin seeds. Use the same amount. The flavor is slightly earthier but works well.
  • ghee → Neutral oil or plant-based butter. Gives a lighter flavor but is still fine for a vegan version.

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Meal
Dinner
Cuisine
Indian
Main ingredient
Basmati Rice
Method
Stovetop

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