Chicken Tsukune Burgers with Shiso and Soft Egg Yolk

Name: Chicken Tsukune Burgers with Shiso and Soft Egg Yolk
Prep time: 25 min
Cook time: 30 min
Total time: 55 min
Yield: 4 servings
Cuisine: Japanese
Ingredients: 3 tbsp (45 ml) soy sauce; 3 tbsp (45 ml) mirin; 3 tbsp (45 ml) sake; 2 tsp (8 g) granulated sugar; 1½ lb (680 g) ground chicken thigh, cold, straight from the fridge; ½ cup (30 g) panko breadcrumbs; 2 whites (60 g) large egg whites, separated from the 4 yolks used for topping, lightly beaten; 2 whole (30 g) scallions, white and green parts finely chopped; 1 tbsp (6 g) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated; 1 clove (3 g) garlic, finely grated; 4 leaves (4 g) shiso leaves, stacked, rolled and finely sliced; 1 tsp (5 g) kosher salt; ¼ tsp (½ g) ground white pepper; 2 tbsp (30 ml) neutral oil such as canola or avocado, divided: 1 tbsp for the patties, 1 tsp for the yolks, the rest as needed; 4 yolks (72 g) large egg yolks, very fresh, each separated into its own small cup or ramekin; 4 buns (280 g) soft burger buns or brioche buns, split in half; 2 tbsp (28 g) unsalted butter, softened; 4 tbsp (60 g) Japanese mayonnaise (Kewpie); 1½ cups (100 g) green cabbage, very thinly shredded; 8 leaves (8 g) shiso leaves, whole, stems trimmed, patted dry; 2 tsp (6 g) toasted white sesame seeds; 1 tsp (2 g) shichimi togarashi, for sprinkling (optional)

From the MyKitchenBank Kitchen

Juicy ginger-scented chicken thigh patties are pan-seared and lacquered in a sticky soy-mirin tare glaze, then stacked on toasted buns with crisp cabbage, fresh shiso, Japanese mayo and a jammy egg yolk, the classic way tsukune skewers are served in izakayas.

Prep: 25 min
Cook: 30 min
Wait: 25 min
Total: 1 hr 20 min
Makes: 4 burgers

Save to My Kitchen Jump to recipe

Ingredients

4 servings

For the tare glaze
3 tbsp (45 ml) soy sauce
3 tbsp (45 ml) mirin
3 tbsp (45 ml) sake
2 tsp (8 g) granulated sugar
For the patties
1½ lb (680 g) ground chicken thigh, cold, straight from the fridge
½ cup (30 g) panko breadcrumbs
2 whites (60 g) large egg whites, separated from the 4 yolks used for topping, lightly beaten
2 whole (30 g) scallions, white and green parts finely chopped
1 tbsp (6 g) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
1 clove (3 g) garlic, finely grated
4 leaves (4 g) shiso leaves, stacked, rolled and finely sliced
1 tsp (5 g) kosher salt
¼ tsp (0.5 g) ground white pepper
For cooking
2 tbsp (30 ml) neutral oil such as canola or avocado, divided: 1 tbsp for the patties, 1 tsp for the yolks, the rest as needed
For assembly
4 yolks (72 g) large egg yolks, very fresh, each separated into its own small cup or ramekin
4 buns (280 g) soft burger buns or brioche buns, split in half
2 tbsp (28 g) unsalted butter, softened
4 tbsp (60 g) Japanese mayonnaise (Kewpie)
1½ cups (100 g) green cabbage, very thinly shredded
8 leaves (8 g) shiso leaves, whole, stems trimmed, patted dry
2 tsp (6 g) toasted white sesame seeds
1 tsp (2 g) shichimi togarashi, for sprinkling (optional)

Equipment (7)

12-inch (30 cm) heavy skillet (cast iron or stainless steel), with a lid
Small nonstick skillet, 8-inch (20 cm), with a lid
Small saucepan, 1-quart (1 L)
Large mixing bowl
Rimmed baking sheet or plate lined with parchment paper
Instant-read thermometer
Fish slice or thin spatula

Steps

Before you start

Use ground chicken made from thighs (or a mix with at least 15% fat). Lean breast mince makes dry, crumbly patties.
Keep the chicken in the fridge until you are ready to mix, so the patties stay cold and hold their shape.
Read the egg yolk note: the yolks are cooked only until jammy, which is not fully cooked. If you are pregnant, elderly, immunocompromised or serving young children, cook the yolks until firm or skip them.
Have a reliable instant-read thermometer ready. Patties must reach 165°F (74°C) in the center.

1
Reduce the tare
- In a small saucepan, combine the soy sauce, mirin, sake and sugar.
- Set over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves, then bring to a steady simmer.
- Simmer for 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until reduced to about ⅓ cup (80 ml) and the bubbles become large and slow.
- Pour into a small bowl; it will thicken more as it cools.
+ Show details− Hide details
Ready when: The glaze coats the back of a spoon and a line drawn with your finger holds for a second
Tip: Watch it near the end. Sugary glazes go from perfect to burnt quickly. If it gets too thick, stir in 1 tsp water.
2
Soak the panko
- In a large bowl, stir the panko with the lightly beaten egg whites and let it sit for 5 minutes while you chop the scallions, grate the ginger and garlic, and slice the 4 shiso leaves for the patties.
- The panko will swell into a damp paste that keeps the patties tender.
+ Show details− Hide details
Ready when: Panko looks wet and pasty with no dry crumbs
3
Mix the patty mixture
- Add the scallions, ginger, garlic, shiso, salt and white pepper to the panko mixture, then add the cold ground chicken.
- Using your hand like a claw, mix for about 1 minute, just until the mixture looks sticky and uniform.
- Do not overwork or the patties will turn rubbery.
+ Show details− Hide details
Ready when: Mixture is tacky and holds together when squeezed, with no streaks of unmixed seasoning
Tip: Wet your hands with cold water if the mixture sticks to them.
4
Shape and chill
- Divide the mixture into 4 equal portions of about 6 oz (170 g) each.
- Shape each into a patty about 4 inches (10 cm) across and ¾ inch (2 cm) thick, pressing a shallow dimple into the center with your thumb so it doesn't puff up.
- Set on the parchment-lined tray, cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
+ Show details− Hide details
Ready when: Patties feel firm and cold to the touch
Tip: The patties are softer than beef burgers, so handle them gently and use a wide spatula.
5
Prep the toppings
- While the patties chill, stir the shredded cabbage with 1 tbsp of the Japanese mayo and a pinch of salt from your pinch.
- Keep the remaining 3 tbsp mayo for the buns.
- Make sure each egg yolk is in its own small cup, intact, so it can be slid into the pan later.
- Pat the whole shiso leaves dry.
+ Show details− Hide details
Ready when: Cabbage is lightly coated and glistening
Tip: Separate the eggs while they are cold; the yolks are firmer and less likely to break.
6
Sear the patties
- Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in the 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat for 2 minutes, until it shimmers.
- Add the patties, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) between them.
- Cook undisturbed for 3 minutes until the underside is deep golden brown, then flip and cook 3 minutes more.
+ Show details− Hide details
Ready when: Both sides are deep golden brown and the patties release easily from the pan
Tip: If a patty sticks, wait another 30 seconds; it releases when properly browned.
7
Glaze and finishOven 165°F / 75°C
- Reduce the heat to medium-low.
- Brush the tops of the patties with about half of the tare, flip, and cook 1 minute.
- Brush the new tops with more tare, flip again, then cover the pan and cook 3 minutes.
- Check with a thermometer: the centers must read 165°F (74°C).
- Transfer to a plate and rest 2 minutes.
- Reserve the leftover tare.
+ Show details− Hide details
Ready when: Patties are glossy and lacquered, juices run clear and the center reads 165°F (74°C)
Tip: Don't let the glaze sit on high heat; the sugar burns fast. Wipe out the pan if there are black bits.
8
Toast the buns
- Spread the softened butter over the cut sides of the buns.
- Place them cut-side down in a clean skillet or the wiped-out pan over medium heat and toast for 1 to 2 minutes.
- Spread the cut sides with the 3 tbsp reserved mayo.
+ Show details− Hide details
Ready when: Cut sides are golden brown and slightly crisp
9
Cook the yolks
- Heat 1 tsp oil in the small nonstick skillet over low heat for 30 seconds.
- Gently slide in the 4 yolks, spaced apart.
- Add 1 tbsp water to the pan, cover, and cook 2 to 3 minutes, just until a thin white film sets over the surface but the yolks still jiggle.
- For fully cooked yolks, cook 4 to 5 minutes until firm.
+ Show details− Hide details
Ready when: Yolks are glossy with a set film on top and still soft and jammy inside (firm if cooked fully)
Tip: Use a very fresh egg so the yolk keeps its dome, and keep the heat low so the bottoms don't turn rubbery.
10
Assemble and serve
- Place a few shiso leaves on each bottom bun, then a patty, a brush of the remaining tare, a mound of dressed cabbage and a cooked yolk.
- Sprinkle with sesame seeds and togarashi if using, add the top bun and serve right away, with the remaining tare for dipping.
+ Show details− Hide details
Tip: Serve immediately; once the yolk breaks the buns start to soften.

Good to know

Tips

Chicken thigh gives the juiciest patties. If you only find lean mince, add 1 tbsp neutral oil to the mixture.
Pressing a dimple into each patty prevents a domed center and keeps the patty flat for stacking.
Brush the glaze on in thin layers over lower heat for a glossy finish without burning.
Fry a tiny test piece of the mixture and taste it to check the seasoning before shaping all four patties.

Make ahead

"The tare can be made up to 1 week ahead and refrigerated in a jar. The patty mixture can be shaped and refrigerated, covered, up to 24 hours before cooking. Cook the yolks and assemble just before serving."

Storage & reheating

"Room temperature: no more than 2 hours. Fridge: store cooked patties separately from buns and toppings in an airtight container for up to 3 days; reheat in a covered skillet over medium-low heat with a splash of water for 4 to 5 minutes until steaming hot (165°F/74°C). Freezer: freeze cooked, glazed patties for up to 2 months (or raw patties separated by parchment for up to 3 months); thaw overnight in the fridge. Do not store cooked yolks; make them fresh."

Substitutions

sake → Dry sherry or additional mirin plus 1 tsp water. Slightly sweeter if using mirin only; reduce the sugar to 1 tsp.
shiso leaves → Fresh basil leaves with a few mint leaves, or butter lettuce. Basil and mint mimic the herbal, minty flavor of shiso.
Japanese mayonnaise (Kewpie) → Regular mayonnaise with a squeeze of lemon juice and a pinch of sugar. Kewpie is richer and tangier, so add the lemon and sugar to approximate it.
soy sauce → Tamari. Makes the glaze gluten-free; also use gluten-free buns and panko.