Tunisian Fricassé Buns with Tuna, Harissa, Olives and Egg
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Rolls & BunsTunisianMedium

Tunisian Fricassé Buns with Tuna, Harissa, Olives and Egg

Soft, olive-oil-enriched yeast dough is shaped into little buns, deep-fried until blistered and golden, then split and stuffed with spicy harissa, tuna, green olives, potato and hard-boiled egg. This is Tunisia's beloved street-food sandwich, and it's best eaten warm.

Prep
1 hr 1 min
Cook
20 min
Wait
1 hr 7 min
Total
2 hr 28 min
Makes
12 filled buns (2 per serving)
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Steps

Before you start
  • Read the timing: the dough needs about 60 minutes to rise, and you'll boil the eggs and potato and make the filling while it rises.
  • Set out a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels for draining the fried buns.
  • You need a deep-fry or candy thermometer. Oil that is too cool makes greasy buns, and oil that is too hot browns the outside before the center cooks.
  • Use a heavy 5-quart (4.7 L) pot and never fill it more than halfway with oil.
  1. Mix and knead dough

    • In a large bowl (or stand mixer bowl) whisk the flour, yeast, sugar and salt.
    • Add the olive oil and lukewarm water.
    • Stir until a shaggy dough forms, then knead by hand on a lightly floured surface for 10 minutes, or 7 minutes with the dough hook on medium-low.
    • The dough will be soft and slightly tacky.
    • Shape into a ball and place in a lightly oiled bowl.
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    Ready when: The dough is smooth, elastic and springs back slowly when poked, and it passes the windowpane test (stretches thin without tearing).

    Tip: If the dough sticks to your hands, add flour 1 tablespoon at a time. Too much flour makes dense buns.

  2. Let dough rise

    • Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp towel and leave it in a draft-free spot at about 75°F (24°C) until doubled in size.
    • Use this time for the next two steps, which take about 18 minutes.
    • The rise takes 60 minutes in total.
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    Ready when: The dough has doubled, and a fingertip pressed in leaves a dent that fills back slowly.

  3. Boil eggs and potato

    • Put the whole eggs in a medium saucepan, cover with cold water by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and bring to a boil over high heat.
    • Turn off the heat, cover, and let stand 11 minutes.
    • Move the eggs to a bowl of ice water for 5 minutes.
    • Meanwhile, simmer the potato cubes in salted water over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes.
    • Drain and cool.
    • Peel the eggs and slice them into rounds.
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    Ready when: The egg yolks are fully set and pale yellow. The potato cubes are tender when pierced with a knife but still hold their shape.

    Tip: Cool the potato fully before using, or its heat will warm the tuna filling.

  4. Make the tuna filling

    • In a bowl combine the flaked tuna, 1 tablespoon of the harissa, the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the sliced olives, capers and cooled potato.
    • Mix gently and season with black pepper.
    • In a small bowl stir the remaining 2 tablespoons harissa with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil to make a spicy spread.
    • Taste the filling; the olives and capers are already salty, so you may not need extra salt.
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    Ready when: The filling is moist and coated in red-orange harissa, with no dry patches of tuna.

    Tip: Drain the tuna very well so the buns don't turn soggy once filled.

  5. Divide and shape buns

    • Turn the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface and gently press out the large bubbles.
    • Divide into 12 pieces of about 70 g (2½ oz) each.
    • Roll each piece into a smooth ball by cupping your hand over it and rolling in small circles on the unfloured counter.
    • Set the balls on a parchment-lined tray, 2 inches (5 cm) apart, dust lightly with flour, and cover loosely.
    • Let rest until puffy.
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    Ready when: The balls look pillowy and a gently pressed fingertip leaves a dent that springs back slowly.

    Tip: Make the tops taut and smooth. Seams and tears can open in the hot oil.

  6. Heat the oilOven 350°F / 175°C

    • While the buns rest, pour the frying oil into a 5-quart (4.7 L) Dutch oven so it is no more than halfway full, about 2½ inches (6 cm) deep.
    • Heat over medium heat until a thermometer reads 350°F (175°C).
    • Adjust the burner to hold that temperature.
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    Ready when: The thermometer holds steady at 350°F (175°C).

    Tip: Test with one scrap of dough: it should sizzle and rise within a few seconds. Never leave hot oil unattended.

  7. Fry the bunsOven 350°F / 175°C

    • Lower 3 buns at a time into the oil using a slotted spoon.
    • Fry for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once, until deep golden brown and puffed.
    • Check that the oil returns to 350°F (175°C) between batches.
    • Lift out with a slotted spoon and set on the paper-towel-lined rack.
    • Repeat with the remaining buns.
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    Ready when: Buns are an even deep golden brown, feel light, and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.

    Tip: Do not crowd the pot. More than 3 buns drops the oil temperature and makes them greasy.

  8. Drain and cool briefly

    • Let the fried buns drain on the rack for 5 minutes so they are cool enough to handle but still warm.
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    Ready when: The buns no longer feel greasy on the surface and can be held comfortably.

  9. Fill and serve

    • Cut each warm bun open along one side, leaving the opposite edge attached like a pocket.
    • Spread the inside with the harissa-oil spread, then spoon in the tuna filling and tuck in 2 or 3 egg slices.
    • Serve right away, 2 buns per person.
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    Ready when: The buns are full but still close, and the harissa shows at the edges.

    Tip: Fill just before eating. Buns filled too early lose their crisp crust.

Good to know

Tips
  • Keep the oil at 350°F (175°C). A thermometer matters more than the timer.
  • A soft, slightly sticky dough gives the lightest, hollow-centered buns that pocket well.
  • Fry the buns a bit darker than you think. Pale buns taste doughy and soak up oil.
  • Add a spoonful of the oil from the tuna can to the filling if it seems dry.
Make ahead

"The dough can rise in the fridge overnight, covered, for up to 12 hours. Bring it to room temperature for 30 minutes before shaping. The filling keeps covered in the fridge for 1 day. Fry the buns the day you plan to serve them."

Storage & reheating

"Unfilled fried buns keep at room temperature for up to 8 hours and in an airtight container in the fridge for 2 days; freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat unfilled buns in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 6 to 8 minutes to re-crisp. Keep the filling in the fridge for up to 2 days. Filled buns are best eaten immediately and should not be stored."

Substitutions
  • harissa paste → Chili-garlic paste or a mix of 1 tbsp tomato paste, 1 tsp ground chili and 1 small crushed garlic clove. Heat and flavor will differ; start with less and add to taste.
  • canned tuna in olive oil → Canned or poached mackerel or sardines. Stronger flavor; drain well.
  • pitted green olives → Black olives or chopped preserved lemon rind. Preserved lemon is very salty, so use about 1 tbsp and skip the capers.
  • all-purpose flour → Bread flour. Gives a slightly chewier bun; add 1 to 2 tbsp extra water if the dough feels stiff.

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