Noodle SoupsJapaneseMedium

Shio Ramen with Chicken Broth, Chashu Pork and Jammy Eggs

Name: Shio Ramen with Chicken Broth, Chashu Pork and Jammy Eggs
Prep time: 50 min
Cook time: 2 h
Total time: 2 h 50 min
Yield: 4 servings
Cuisine: Japanese
Ingredients: 1½ lb (680 g) skinless pork belly, in one even slab, rolled up tightly lengthwise and tied with twine every 1½ inches (4 cm); ½ cup (100 ml) soy sauce; ½ cup (100 ml) sake; 4 tbsp (60 ml) mirin; 1¼ cups (300 ml) water; 2 tbsp (25 g) granulated sugar; ¾ oz (20 g) fresh ginger, sliced into 3–4 coins, unpeeled; 3 cloves (15 g) garlic, smashed with the side of a knife, peel left on; 2 lb (900 g) chicken wings, whole, rinsed under cold water; 10 cups (2400 ml) cold water, cold, plus extra for blanching the wings; 1 oz (30 g) fresh ginger, sliced into ¼-inch (6 mm) coins, unpeeled; 4 cloves (20 g) garlic, smashed, peel left on; 3 whole (45 g) scallions, trimmed and cut in half crosswise; ⅓ oz (10 g) dried kombu, one piece about 4 × 4 inches (10 × 10 cm), wiped with a damp cloth, not rinsed; 1 tbsp (18 g) fine sea salt; 4 tbsp (60 ml) sake; 4 tbsp (60 ml) mirin; 4 tbsp (60 ml) water; 0.18 oz (5 g) dried kombu, one piece about 2 × 4 inches (5 × 10 cm), wiped with a damp cloth; 4 whole (200 g) large eggs, cold, straight from the fridge; 2 cups (300 g) ice cubes, for an ice bath, with cold water; 1 lb (460 g) fresh ramen noodles, 4 portions of about 115 g each, loosened by hand; 12 cups (3000 ml) water, for boiling the noodles (unsalted); 4 whole (60 g) scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced on a diagonal; 2 sheets (6 g) toasted nori sheets, each cut in half to make 4 rectangles; 3 oz (85 g) seasoned bamboo shoots (menma), drained (optional); ground white pepper, to taste, a small pinch per bowl

From the MyKitchenBank Kitchen

A clear, golden chicken broth seasoned at the bowl with a sake-and-kombu sea salt tare, then topped with soy-braised chashu pork belly, marinated soft-boiled eggs, springy noodles and scallions. It tastes clean and deeply savory, and the broth and chashu simmer side by side so the work overlaps.

Prep: 50 min
Cook: 2 hr
Wait: 40 min
Total: 3 hr 30 min
Makes: 4 large bowls of ramen (about 1½ cups / 350 ml broth each)

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Ingredients

4 servings

For the chashu and braise
1½ lb (680 g) skinless pork belly, in one even slab, rolled up tightly lengthwise and tied with twine every 1½ inches (4 cm)
½ cup (100 ml) soy sauce
½ cup (100 ml) sake
4 tbsp (60 ml) mirin
1¼ cups (300 ml) water
2 tbsp (25 g) granulated sugar
¾ oz (20 g) fresh ginger, sliced into 3–4 coins, unpeeled
3 cloves (15 g) garlic, smashed with the side of a knife, peel left on
For the chicken broth
2 lb (900 g) chicken wings, whole, rinsed under cold water
10 cups (2400 ml) cold water, cold, plus extra for blanching the wings
1 oz (30 g) fresh ginger, sliced into ¼-inch (6 mm) coins, unpeeled
4 cloves (20 g) garlic, smashed, peel left on
3 whole (45 g) scallions, trimmed and cut in half crosswise
⅓ oz (10 g) dried kombu, one piece about 4 × 4 inches (10 × 10 cm), wiped with a damp cloth, not rinsed
For the shio tare
1 tbsp (18 g) fine sea salt
4 tbsp (60 ml) sake
4 tbsp (60 ml) mirin
4 tbsp (60 ml) water
¼ oz (5 g) dried kombu, one piece about 2 × 4 inches (5 × 10 cm), wiped with a damp cloth
For the ramen eggs
4 whole (200 g) large eggs, cold, straight from the fridge
2 cups (300 g) ice cubes, for an ice bath, with cold water
To assemble
1 lb (460 g) fresh ramen noodles, 4 portions of about 115 g each, loosened by hand
12 cups (3000 ml) water, for boiling the noodles (unsalted)
4 whole (60 g) scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced on a diagonal
2 sheets (6 g) toasted nori sheets, each cut in half to make 4 rectangles
3 oz (85 g) seasoned bamboo shoots (menma), drained (optional)
ground white pepper, to taste, a small pinch per bowl

Equipment (11)

5-quart (4.7 L) stockpot for the broth
Small heavy pot or saucepan, 7-inch (18 cm) wide, with lid, for the chashu
Large pot, 4–5 quarts (4–5 L), for cooking the noodles
Small saucepan, 1-quart (1 L), for the tare and the eggs
Fine-mesh strainer and a large heatproof bowl or pot
Kitchen twine
Sheet of parchment paper to use as a drop lid
Zip-top bag or small snug container for the eggs
Ladle, tongs, and a slotted spoon or spider
Instant-read thermometer
4 ramen bowls (about 3 cups / 750 ml each)

Steps

Before you start

Plan on about 3½ hours. The chashu braise and the chicken broth both simmer for about 2 hours, and you start them within 20 minutes of each other. The tasks in between are short.
Take the eggs out of the fridge only when you reach step 7. Cold eggs go straight into boiling water, which gives the most consistent jammy yolks.
Buy skinless pork belly in one piece, about 1½ lb (680 g), and ask the butcher for an even, rectangular slab that is easy to roll.
The broth is deliberately unsalted. All of the salt comes from the tare you add to each bowl, so don't season the pot.
Warm four large ramen bowls (about 3-cup / 750 ml capacity) in a 200°F (95°C) oven or with hot tap water just before serving.

1
Sear the pork
- Set the 7-inch (18 cm) heavy pot over medium-high heat.
- Add the rolled, tied pork belly (no oil is needed, because the belly renders its own fat).
- Sear for 8 to 10 minutes total, turning every 2 minutes with tongs, until all sides are lightly browned.
- Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the rendered fat, or save it for another use.
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Ready when: The whole roll is evenly golden brown, with no pale patches.
Tip: Keep the twine tight. A loose roll falls apart and cooks unevenly in the braise.
2
Braise the chashu
- To the pot with the pork, add the soy sauce, sake, mirin, water, sugar, ginger and garlic.
- Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, stirring once to dissolve the sugar.
- The liquid should come about two-thirds of the way up the roll.
- Lower the heat to low, lay a round of parchment directly on the surface and cover with the lid slightly ajar.
- Braise for 2 hours, turning the roll a quarter turn every 30 minutes.
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Ready when: A skewer slides into the center of the roll with almost no resistance and the internal temperature reads about 195°F (90°C). The liquid has reduced to a glossy, syrupy sauce.
Tip: Only the barest bubbles should break the surface. A hard boil makes the pork tough and cloudy. If the liquid drops below halfway up the roll, add ¼ cup (60 ml) hot water.
3
Blanch the wings
- While the pork braises, put the chicken wings in the 5-quart stockpot and cover with cold water by 2 inches (5 cm).
- Bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 5 minutes, until grey foam rises to the top.
- Drain into a colander in the sink, then rinse each wing under cold running water to remove scum and clinging proteins.
- Wash the pot to remove any residue.
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Ready when: The water is covered in grey foam and the wings have turned pale and firm on the outside.
Tip: This step is what makes the broth clear and clean tasting for shio ramen. Don't skip it.
4
Simmer the chicken broth
- Return the rinsed wings to the clean pot and add the 10 cups (2.4 L) of cold water, the ginger, garlic and scallions.
- Bring slowly to a bare simmer over medium-high heat, which takes about 15 minutes, skimming off any foam with a spoon.
- Reduce the heat to low so only a few bubbles rise every second.
- Simmer uncovered for 1 hour 40 minutes, skimming once or twice more.
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Ready when: The broth is pale gold and slightly cloudy at the edges. The wing meat is falling off the bones and the liquid has reduced by about one-third.
Tip: Never let the broth boil hard, because that emulsifies the fat and makes the soup cloudy and greasy.
5
Add the kombu
- Slide the 10 g piece of kombu into the broth and keep simmering on low for 20 more minutes.
- Don't let it boil.
- Meanwhile, check the pork: when a skewer meets no resistance, the chashu is done.
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Ready when: The kombu is soft and glossy and the broth smells savory and slightly sweet.
Tip: Kombu added at the start or boiled hard turns the broth bitter and slimy, which is why it goes in at the end.
6
Rest and slice chashu
- Turn off the heat under the pork.
- Transfer the roll to a plate and let it cool for 20 minutes.
- Strain the braising liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a small bowl and measure out ½ cup (120 ml) for the eggs.
- Once the pork is cool enough to handle, cut off the twine and slice the roll into ½-inch (1.2 cm) thick rounds with a sharp knife.
- Set aside, covered.
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Ready when: The pork is firm enough to hold a clean slice and the cut face looks moist and rosy-brown.
Tip: The pork is also easier to slice if you chill it for an hour first. Warm it in a little braising liquid before serving.
7
Cook and marinate eggs
- Bring the 1-quart saucepan of water to a rolling boil over high heat.
- Gently lower the cold eggs in with a spoon and set a timer for 6 minutes 30 seconds, adjusting the heat to keep a steady boil.
- Meanwhile, fill a bowl with the ice and cold water.
- Move the eggs straight to the ice bath for 5 minutes, then peel carefully under a trickle of cold water.
- Place the eggs in a zip-top bag with the ½ cup (120 ml) cooled braising liquid, press out the air and seal.
- Marinate for 30 minutes, turning the bag now and then.
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Ready when: The whites are just set and the yolks are jammy and orange in the middle, and the outsides are tan-brown after marinating.
Tip: Don't marinate longer than about 4 hours, or the whites become rubbery and too salty.
8
Make the shio tare
- In a small saucepan, combine the sake, mirin, water and kombu.
- Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat and cook for 2 minutes to cook off the alcohol.
- Remove the kombu, add the sea salt and stir for about 1 minute until it fully dissolves.
- Simmer 2 more minutes, then take off the heat.
- You should have about ⅔ cup (150 ml) of tare.
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Ready when: The salt crystals have dissolved and the liquid is clear and slightly syrupy, with no raw alcohol smell.
Tip: Keep the heat moderate. Boiling hard reduces the tare too far and makes it taste harsh and over-salty.
9
Strain the broth
- Lift the wings and aromatics out of the broth with a slotted spoon and discard them, along with the kombu.
- Pour the broth through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean pot, which should give about 6½ cups (1.5 L).
- Skim the golden fat from the surface with a ladle into a small bowl and save it, about 4 teaspoons.
- Keep the broth hot over low heat, unsalted, until serving.
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Ready when: The strained broth is clear gold and steaming (about 185°F / 85°C) but not boiling.
Tip: Don't press down on the solids in the strainer. Pushing makes the broth cloudy.
10
Cook the noodles
- Bring the 12 cups (3 L) of water to a full rolling boil in the large pot over high heat.
- While it heats, warm the pork slices in a skillet or microwave with a spoonful of the strained braising liquid and halve the marinated eggs.
- Add the loosened noodles to the boiling water and stir for the first 15 seconds so they don't clump.
- Cook for the time on the package, usually 1½ to 2 minutes for fresh noodles.
- Drain very well in a colander, shaking off all the water.
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Ready when: The noodles are springy with a slight bite and no raw flour center when you bite one.
Tip: Cook the noodles in their own pot of unsalted water, not in the broth, which keeps the soup clear. Drain thoroughly, because leftover water dilutes the tare.
11
Assemble and serve
- Into each warmed bowl, spoon 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of tare, 1 teaspoon of the reserved chicken fat and a small pinch of white pepper.
- Ladle in 1½ cups (350 ml) of hot broth and stir.
- Taste and add another teaspoon of tare if you like it saltier.
- Add a portion of drained noodles, lifting them with chopsticks so they lie in neat folds.
- Top with 2 or 3 slices of chashu, 2 egg halves, a nori rectangle tucked against the side, the menma if using, and the scallions.
- Serve right away.
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Ready when: The broth is steaming hot and tastes savory and lightly salty, with the noodles submerged in it.
Tip: Ramen noodles keep cooking and soften quickly in hot broth, so assemble and eat within 5 minutes.

Good to know

Tips

Keep the broth at a bare simmer the whole time. This is the single biggest factor in a clear shio ramen broth.
Season each bowl with tare before adding the broth. That way the salt is evenly mixed and you can adjust each bowl to taste.
Warm bowls keep the soup hot much longer, so the noodles don't go soft while you eat.
Don't throw out leftover braising liquid. Use it to marinate more eggs, as a seasoning for fried rice or to glaze the next batch of chashu.

Make ahead

"The chashu, broth and tare can all be made up to 3 days ahead. Cool the pork in its braising liquid, then refrigerate it whole and slice cold. Chill the broth and lift off the solid fat. The eggs are best marinated the day before for deeper color, but no longer than 24 hours. Cook the noodles fresh just before serving."

Storage & reheating

"Refrigerator: store the broth, tare, chashu (in some braising liquid) and eggs separately in airtight containers for up to 3 days. Leftover cooked noodles don't keep well, so cook only what you need. Freezer: freeze the broth for up to 3 months and the chashu in its liquid for up to 2 months. The eggs don't freeze well. Reheat the broth in a pot over medium heat until steaming, and warm sliced chashu in a skillet with a splash of braising liquid or in the hot broth for 1 minute."

Substitutions

chicken wings → chicken backs, necks or a raw carcass of the same weight (900 g). Wings give the best body, but any bony chicken parts work. Blanch them the same way.
skinless pork belly → boneless pork shoulder, 1½ lb (680 g), tied into a log. It is leaner and will take about 2½ hours to become tender. Slice it slightly thicker.
sake → dry white wine or dry sherry. Use the same amount. Simmer an extra minute to cook off the alcohol.
fresh ramen noodles → dried ramen noodles, 12 oz (340 g). Cook for the time on the package, usually 3 to 5 minutes.

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Steps

Sear the pork

Braise the chashu

Blanch the wings

Simmer the chicken broth

Add the kombu

Rest and slice chashu

Cook and marinate eggs

Make the shio tare

Strain the broth

Cook the noodles

Assemble and serve

Good to know

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