Lobster Corn Chowder

Steps

1. 1

   Prep the vegetables

   • Cut the kernels off the corn: stand each ear upright in a wide bowl and slice downward with a sharp knife; you should get about 3 cups (450 g).
   • Break each cob in half and save them.
   • Halve the leeks lengthwise, slice the white and light green parts ½-inch thick, and swish the slices in a large bowl of cold water; lift them out with your hands, leaving grit behind, and drain.
   • Keep the dark green tops whole for the stock.
   • Dice the celery and peel and cube the potatoes into ½-inch pieces; keep the potatoes in cold water until needed.

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   Ready when: Leek slices are grit-free and the corn kernels are fully removed from the cobs.

   Tip: Rinse leeks after slicing, not before; grit hides between the layers and only washes out once they are separated.

2. 2

   Steam the lobsters

   • Pour 4 cups (950 ml) of the water into the 8-quart pot, add the 1 tablespoon salt, and bring to a rolling boil over high heat.
   • Add the lobsters head first, cover tightly, and steam for 10 minutes, until the shells are bright red.

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   Ready when: Shells are bright red and the meat in the thickest part of the tail reads 145°F (63°C) on an instant-read thermometer.

   Tip: Do not lift the lid early; the steam is what cooks the lobsters evenly. Keep the pot's liquid; it becomes the base of the stock.

3. 3

   Cool and shell lobsters

   • Use tongs to move the lobsters to a rimmed tray and let them cool for 10 minutes, leaving the steaming liquid in the pot.
   • Twist off the tails and claws.
   • Use kitchen shears to cut the tail shell underneath and pull out the tail meat; crack the claws and knuckles and remove the meat in as large pieces as possible.
   • Remove the dark intestinal vein from the tail.
   • Cut all the meat into ¾-inch pieces and refrigerate in a covered bowl.
   • Scrape any green tomalley or coral into the pot if you like a richer stock, then break all the shells and bodies into pieces.

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   Ready when: Meat is opaque white with a faint red tinge, firm but not rubbery, in ¾-inch pieces.

   Tip: Work over the tray to catch the juices and pour them into the stock pot.

4. 4

   Simmer the lobster stock

   • Add the broken lobster shells and bodies, saved corn cobs, leek green tops, bay leaf, and the remaining 2 cups (475 ml) water to the steaming liquid.
   • Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat, partially covered, for 25 minutes.
   • Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl, pressing on the solids.
   • Measure the stock: you need 4 cups (950 ml).
   • Add water if you are short, or boil it down if you have more.

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   Ready when: Stock smells sweet and briny and is a pale orange-gold; the measured amount is 4 cups.

   Tip: Keep it at a gentle simmer; a hard boil makes the stock cloudy and can turn it bitter.

5. 5

   Soften leeks and celery

   • While the stock simmers, melt the butter in the heavy-bottomed chowder pot over medium heat.
   • Add the sliced leeks, celery, and ¼ teaspoon of salt.
   • Cook, stirring often, for 8 minutes, until the leeks are very soft and glossy but have no browning.

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   Ready when: Leeks are limp, translucent, and sweet-smelling with no color.

   Tip: If the vegetables begin to brown, lower the heat; browning would darken the chowder and add bitterness.

6. 6

   Cook the flour and sherry

   • Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir constantly for 2 minutes to cook out the raw flour taste; the mixture will look like a thick paste.
   • Pour in the sherry, scraping up any bits from the bottom, and cook for 1 minute, until almost evaporated.

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   Ready when: The flour smells slightly toasty and no dry white streaks remain; the sherry smell is mellow, not sharp.

7. 7

   Simmer the potatoes

   • Gradually pour in the 4 cups of strained stock, whisking or stirring after each addition so there are no lumps.
   • Drain the potatoes, add them with the thyme sprigs, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.
   • Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for 12 minutes, stirring once or twice.

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   Ready when: A potato cube slides off a paring knife and crushes easily against the side of the pot.

   Tip: Stir gently near the end so the potatoes soften and thicken the chowder without all breaking apart.

8. 8

   Add corn and dairy

   • Remove the thyme sprigs.
   • Stir in the corn kernels, milk, cream, and cayenne.
   • Heat over medium-low for 6 minutes, stirring often, until the chowder is steaming and slightly thickened.
   • Do not let it boil.

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   Ready when: Corn is bright yellow and tender-crisp, and the chowder coats the back of a spoon; small bubbles form only at the edges.

   Tip: Boiling after the dairy goes in can make the cream split and look grainy.

9. 9

   Warm the lobster

   • Stir in the chopped lobster and lemon juice.
   • Warm over low heat for 2 minutes, just until the lobster is heated through.
   • Turn off the heat.

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   Ready when: Lobster pieces are hot to the touch (at least 145°F / 63°C) and still tender.

   Tip: The lobster is already cooked; more time on the heat will make it tough.

10. 10

    Season, rest, and serve

    • Taste and add salt and freshly ground pepper, usually another ½ to ¾ teaspoon salt.
    • Let the chowder rest off the heat for 5 minutes so the flavors meld and it thickens slightly.
    • Ladle into warm bowls and top with sliced chives.

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    Ready when: Chowder tastes sweet, savory, and well seasoned, with a thick but spoonable texture.

    Tip: Season at the end; the stock and sherry reduce and change the saltiness along the way.