Japanese Shoyu Ramen with Chicken, Marinated Eggs, Menma and Nori

Steps

1. 1

   Soft-boil the eggs

   • Bring 4 cups (950 ml) water to a full rolling boil in a 2-quart saucepan over high heat.
   • Lower the cold eggs in gently with a spoon, set a timer for 6 minutes 30 seconds, and keep the water at a steady, lively simmer.
   • Meanwhile, fill a bowl with ice and cold water.
   • When the timer goes off, move the eggs straight into the ice bath and chill for 5 minutes.
   • Peel carefully under a thin stream of cool water, starting at the wider end.

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   Ready when: The whites are set and the yolks are jammy and deep orange when cut; peeled eggs feel firm but slightly springy.

   Tip: Cold eggs straight from the fridge give the most consistent timing. Do not skip the ice bath or the yolks keep cooking.

2. 2

   Marinate the eggs

   • In a quart-size zip-top bag, combine 3 tablespoons (45 ml) soy sauce, 3 tablespoons (45 ml) mirin and ¼ cup (60 ml) water.
   • Add the peeled eggs, press out the air, and seal.
   • Set the bag in a small bowl in the refrigerator, turning it every 20 minutes or so.
   • Marinate for at least 60 minutes and up to 24 hours.
   • Proceed with the broth while they marinate.

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   Ready when: The whites are evenly tan-brown on the outside after at least 60 minutes.

   Tip: Squeezing out the air helps the thin marinade coat every egg evenly.

3. 3

   Simmer the tare

   • In a 1-quart saucepan, combine ½ cup (120 ml) soy sauce, ¼ cup (60 ml) mirin, ¼ cup (60 ml) sake and 1 teaspoon sugar.
   • Set over medium-low heat and bring just to a bare simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
   • Simmer gently for 5 minutes so the alcohol cooks off.
   • Remove from the heat and let it sit in the pan.
   • You should have roughly ¾ cup (180–200 ml).

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   Ready when: The tare smells rich and no longer sharp with alcohol, and it's slightly glossy.

   Tip: Don't boil hard. A rapid boil reduces it too far and makes it salty and harsh.

4. 4

   Steep the broth

   • Pour the chicken broth into a 5–6 quart pot.
   • Add the kombu, dried shiitake, ginger, garlic and the 3 cut scallions.
   • Set over medium-low heat and bring slowly to a gentle steam with tiny bubbles at the edges, about 10 minutes, then hold for 5 minutes more.
   • Use tongs to remove and discard the kombu before the liquid reaches a boil.

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   Ready when: Tiny bubbles form around the edge, the surface steams, and the broth smells savory and gingery.

   Tip: Boiling kombu turns the broth bitter and slimy, so lift it out before big bubbles appear.

5. 5

   Poach the chicken

   • Add the chicken thighs to the pot, making sure they are submerged.
   • Keep the broth at a gentle simmer with just a few bubbles breaking the surface, over low to medium-low heat, for 15 to 18 minutes.
   • Check the thickest thigh with an instant-read thermometer.

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   Ready when: The thickest part of the thigh reads at least 165°F (74°C) and the juices run clear.

   Tip: A hard boil makes the broth cloudy and the chicken tough, so keep it at a gentle simmer.

6. 6

   Strain and rest

   • Transfer the chicken to a plate and let it rest for 5 minutes.
   • Meanwhile, set the fine-mesh strainer over a clean large pot or bowl and strain the broth, discarding the solids.
   • Return the broth to the pot and keep it hot over low heat.
   • Start the 4 quarts (3.8 L) of water for the noodles on high heat in the large pot now.
   • Slice the rested chicken thinly against the grain.

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   Ready when: The broth is clear, golden-brown and steaming, and the chicken slices easily without shredding.

   Tip: Taste the strained broth plain. It should taste mild; the tare adds the salt in the bowl.

7. 7

   Prepare the toppings

   • Drain the menma and warm it in a small ladleful of the hot broth for 2 minutes in a small saucepan, then drain.
   • Halve the marinated eggs lengthwise.
   • Cut each nori sheet in half, and thinly slice the scallion greens.
   • Set all toppings next to the bowls.
   • Warm the bowls by filling them with hot tap water for a couple of minutes, then empty them.

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   Ready when: The menma is hot throughout and the eggs show glossy, jammy yolks.

   Tip: Warm bowls keep the ramen hot for longer, which matters because the noodles keep absorbing broth.

8. 8

   Cook the noodles

   • When the noodle water is at a full rolling boil, loosen the noodles and drop them in.
   • Stir immediately with chopsticks and cook according to package directions, usually 2 to 3 minutes for fresh.
   • Drain very well using a spider or colander, shaking off all excess water.
   • Work quickly so the noodles go into the bowls right away.

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   Ready when: The noodles are springy with a slight bite at the center and no raw flour taste.

   Tip: Cook the noodles in plain water, not in the broth, to keep the soup clear.

9. 9

   Assemble and serve

   • Bring the broth back to a steaming simmer.
   • Into each warm bowl, add 3 tablespoons (45 ml) tare and 1 teaspoon sesame oil.
   • Ladle in about 1⅔ cups (400 ml) boiling-hot broth and stir.
   • Add the drained noodles and fold them gently so they sit in the broth.
   • Top each bowl with chicken slices, an egg half or two, menma, half a nori sheet tucked at the edge, scallions and a pinch of white pepper if you like.
   • Serve immediately.

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   Ready when: The broth is a clear amber color and steaming, the noodles are submerged, and the soup tastes savory and balanced, not harshly salty.

   Tip: Stir the tare into the broth before adding noodles. Taste and add a teaspoon more tare per bowl if you want it saltier.