Japanese Shio Koji Chicken Thighs
Boneless chicken thighs rest overnight in a garlic-ginger shio koji marinade, which tenderizes the meat and adds savory depth. A medium-heat sear gives juicy chicken with a golden, lightly caramelized crust.
- Prep
- 19 min
- Cook
- 13 min
- Wait
- 10 hr 25 min
- Total
- 10 hr 57 min
- Makes
- About 2 lb (900 g) cooked chicken thighs (4 servings)
Steps
Before you start
- Plan ahead: the chicken needs 8 to 24 hours in the fridge. Ten hours (overnight) is ideal.
- Use regular salted shio koji (the paste or liquid sold refrigerated at Japanese or Asian grocers). Do not add any extra salt to this recipe.
- Don't marinate longer than 24 hours. The enzymes keep working and the meat turns mushy.
- Use a non-stick or well-seasoned 12-inch skillet. Koji sugars brown fast, so you'll cook over medium heat, not high.
Dry and trim chicken
- Place the chicken thighs on a cutting board and trim off any large pieces of loose fat or sinew.
- Pat both sides thoroughly dry with paper towels so the marinade clings.
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Ready when: Surface of the chicken feels tacky, not wet.
Tip: Leave a little fat on. It keeps the thighs juicy during searing.
Mix the marinade
- In a medium bowl, stir together the shio koji, grated garlic, grated ginger, mirin, and black pepper until it forms a uniform, spreadable paste.
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Ready when: No streaks of ginger or garlic clump remain.
Tip: Don't add soy sauce or salt. Shio koji is already about 10% salt by weight.
Coat the chicken
- Add the chicken to a 1-gallon zip-top bag, then scrape in the marinade.
- Press out the air and seal.
- Massage the bag for about 1 minute so every thigh is coated on all sides.
- Lay the bag flat on a plate or tray.
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Ready when: Every thigh is evenly coated with a thin layer of marinade.
Tip: Wash your hands well after handling raw chicken.
Marinate overnight
- Refrigerate the bag flat at or below 40°F (4°C) for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours.
- Flip the bag once if you remember.
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Ready when: Chicken feels slightly softer and looks a little glossy.
Tip: Past 24 hours the texture turns soft and mealy.
Wipe off the marinade
- Take the bag out of the fridge and let it sit on the counter for 20 minutes to take the chill off.
- Remove each thigh and scrape off most of the marinade with the back of a knife or your fingers, leaving only a thin film.
- Discard the remaining marinade.
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Ready when: Only a thin, translucent coating remains on each thigh.
Tip: Thick leftover marinade scorches in the pan before the chicken cooks through.
Sear first side
- Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes until it shimmers.
- Lay the thighs in the pan smooth side down, spaced apart.
- Cook without moving for 6 to 7 minutes.
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Ready when: Underside is deep golden brown and releases easily from the pan.
Tip: If the chicken browns too quickly or smells burnt, lower the heat slightly. Koji browns faster than plain chicken.
Flip and finish
- Flip the thighs and cook another 6 to 7 minutes, until golden.
- Check the thickest thigh with an instant-read thermometer.
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Ready when: Thickest part reads 175°F (80°C) and juices run clear.
Tip: Food-safe temperature is 165°F (74°C), but thighs are more tender at 175°F.
Rest the chicken
- Transfer the thighs to a clean cutting board and let them rest for 5 minutes.
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Ready when: Juices no longer pool heavily when pressed.
Slice and serve
- Slice the thighs against the grain into ½-inch (1.25 cm) strips.
- Scatter the scallions on top and serve with lemon wedges, if using, and steamed rice.
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Ready when: Slices are juicy with a golden crust.
Tip: A squeeze of lemon brightens the savory koji flavor.
Good to know
Tips
- Always wipe off most of the marinade before cooking. The sugars in koji brown fast and can burn.
- Don't crowd the pan. If your skillet is smaller than 12 inches, cook in two batches so the chicken sears instead of steams.
- Shio koji also works as a dry-brine style rub. Use about 10% of the meat's weight for any chicken, pork, or fish.
- For grilling, cook over medium heat and turn often to prevent flare-ups and charring.
Make ahead
"The raw chicken can marinate up to 24 hours in the fridge. You can also freeze the thighs in the marinade for up to 2 months. Thaw overnight in the fridge, which counts as marinating time, then cook as directed."
Storage & reheating
"Room temperature: no more than 2 hours. Fridge: store cooked chicken in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Freezer: up to 3 months. Reheat gently in a skillet over medium-low heat with a splash of water for 3 to 4 minutes, or microwave covered at 70% power until steaming hot (165°F / 74°C)."
Substitutions
- shio koji → Shio koji from dried koji (homemade) or shio koji liquid. Use the same weight (90 g). Liquid shio koji is a little saltier, so use 80 g.
- boneless, skinless chicken thighs → Bone-in chicken thighs or boneless chicken breasts. Bone-in thighs need 8 to 10 minutes more cooking, covered, to reach 175°F (80°C). Breasts cook to 165°F (74°C) in 5 to 6 minutes per side.
- mirin → Sake plus ¼ tsp sugar. Use 1 tbsp (15 ml) sake with the sugar for similar sweetness.
- neutral oil such as canola or avocado oil → Toasted sesame oil plus neutral oil. Use ½ tbsp of each for a nuttier flavor. Pure sesame oil burns easily.